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93 w250 dually wheel cylinder

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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 01:39 AM
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93 w250 dually wheel cylinder

W250 converted to dually with leaking wheel cylinders. I was wondering if I have to remove the wheels and hub or if i can just go in from the back like the haynes says to. Also how do I remove the hub on the rear, can anyone give me a step by step. Thanks so much
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 05:02 AM
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Front or rear?

Haynes says what?

Yes you have to pull the axles and remove the drums to get to the wheel cylinders, not a difficult job but take pictures first so you will know how it goes back togather.

I would also replace all of the hardware and adjuster starwheels.

Jim
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 06:06 AM
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You've heard of the "sticky", right ?


Bookmark this page: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t102027.html

as it's the answers to most, if not all of your questions.
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:21 PM
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I checked the sticky couldnt really answer all i guess. Its the rear. Where do i get the socket?
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Old Feb 7, 2012 | 10:28 PM
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You definitely need to remove the axle shaft, drum and parking brake lever in order to remove the wheel cylinder. The socket can be found at a Napa. The size you want is a 2 9/16".



To separate the drum and hub assembly you need to drive the studs out. Lay the drum down on the ground with the hub facing upward, thread an old or spare lug nut flush onto a stud, place a short length 2x4 on top and whack it with a small sledge hammer. Repeat the process for the remaining 7 studs. Assembly is about the reverse of disassembly. First, be sure to replace the wheel seals in the hub beforehand. You'll want to place the hub on a sturdy surface. Slip the stud in from the back (inside the drum) and give it a few solid smacks with a good-sized punch and the same small sledge hammer until the mating surfaces of the hub and drum meet. You should feel/hear a solid :thud: when it's seated fully.

Finally, I'd suggest upgrading the factory single spindle nut to a double spindle nut design like the ones I bought from Quad 4x4.



You can see more of my pictures in the following thread...

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t-t294662.html
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 06:56 AM
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If it has 2.5" wide brake shoes you'll be fine with the 1" bore wheel cylinder.

3" wide brake shoes requires the 1 1/8 cylinders........
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Old Feb 8, 2012 | 12:28 PM
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I forgot to add. If you converted to 3" wide drums and shoes get the 1 1/8" wheel cylinders. If you still have the 2.5" drums and shoes, the 1 1/8" will be an improvement.
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