Allright, I'm at the KDP and it hasn't moved in 144K miles but the bolt next to it was not as snug as I thought it should have been.My question is what is the best way to tab the 93? It is somewhat different than all of the pictures I have found of the 94 and up housings.The 93 has a boss cast into the housing between the bolt and dowel hole. Does anyone have a digital picture that can be posted of what they used for this?

 

Mine was the same way. Here's what to do; torque that bolt, and any others under the cover, to the proper spec in your manual (not sure what it is, but probably around 18ft lbs), then take a punch and make three punches in the aluminum cover surround the KDP hole so that it deforms the material into the hole (don't punch too deep - the material is brittle), all you need is just a little bit of mushroom to reduce the hole size enough to prevent the pin from walking out.

This will permanently fix the KDP problem, no need to tab as there is no force on the pin, just walks out under vibe, making the hold a VERY press fit by deforming the edge a little bit will keep it from ever doing that.

 

Talking about this? ;



I'm standing here fixing to fix that too.

I'm thinking about maybe just fashoning some coat-hanger wire into a hoop that the bolt would go through, with a little finger that would reach over through the gap in the wall around the dowel pin.

 

i used a fender washer and cut it down so it had a tab that would go over the pin then used a chisel to remove the boss on the bolt side then lock tight the bolt back in

 

Twist-n-Cut a coat-hanger . . . . .




Then slip that boy in there. WARNING!! Make double-dog sure you don't drop it!





I believe that dog'll hunt!

 

Why didn't I think of that....the coat hanger is a great idea!I decided to make a tab with a piece of hinge material that I had laying around. I ground the tab to fit thru the opening in the boss are and then installed with the bolt and took a punch and formed it into shape to match the contour of the housing.

 

I haven't run across that housing yet. Are you sure it's the original, and not an updated housing?

 

Torquefan,This is the same as the housing on my dad's 93 and I know it is original.

 

Looks just like my 93 also

 

same housing on my 90

 

Sorry to ask, but what does KDP stand for and what is the purpose of this?

 

KDP is killer dowel pin, it is a pin that is used to line up the timing case to the block. Sometimes the pin wiggles out and falls into the gears . It is more prone on the 2nd gen trucks (94 and up) then ours but it does happen.

Mine was coming out when wannadiesel killed it

Normally you have to take the cover off to fix it.

Do a search for killer dowel pin- you'll read for days


By the way Welcome to the site.- and hold on to your wallet ,
Michael

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...threadid=36809

The ultimate KDP thread. Read that and the threads it links you to and you won't sleep tonight.

 

Thanks Michael!

OK, so I read the other links and you have my undivided attention. I guess I will take a look at it when I replace the serpentine belt this week. When I replace the serpentine belt does the tensioner also need to be replaced?

One other question on another subject; is it true that the entire shaft on the rear end has to be removed from each side of a 1-ton dually to get to the shoes and drum?

Has anyone done this and is there anything special that I should consider before embarking on this endeavor?

I just removed the front rotors and had them turned. On closer inspection of the spindle, it appears that the bearings were extremely worn on drivers side so I replaced both bearings and race (sp?). On test drive I sometime think that it feels like the ABS is working to keep the rears from locking all of the time. Kind of a rough feeling when braking hard. I know it's not the front because they were just rebuilt. Any thoughts from the forum?

Thanks for responding!!!

 

Yes, you have to remove the shafts and the bearing nut to get the drums off. I just did mine not to long ago. You might as well replace the seal while you're there. Use white grease on the self adjuster thread after you clean the rust and dirt off it. There is a gasket on the axel shafts that should be replaced also if I remember correctly. The rears have a bad habit of not self-adjusting so that may be the reason it's not braking in the rear properly or the shoes could be down to the rivits.

Buy an extra can of brake fluid and flush bleed the system all around is a good PM.

Edwin