93 Fummins Pump Help Please
93 Fummins Pump Help Please
I have the VE pump apart to install the 3200 rpm spring per instructions on this site. I did fudge a bit By not taking the pump loose from the Engine and also did not take any of the screws out. I didnt see a reason too except Im a bit concerned on Putting it back, Does the Full Fuel screw need to be backed out?
Also, The Pump leaks Fuel when cold from the Throttle shaft. I noticed the Brass bushing has a groove worn in it from the Oring. Can that be replaced? I looks like it presses out, Anyone have a part number for it and the Oring? Ok next thing is when I tried to get the fuel pin out it didnt want to come so I pryed it with a screwdriver, Not real hard But I did pry it, It popped loose. I then realiized there is a slight Lip on one side so if I would have turned it around it would have came out, Now Do you think it hurt anything? I put it back in and Worked it with my finger on the lever and it seemed Smooth and I didnt see any broken Pieces.
Thank you,
Also, The Pump leaks Fuel when cold from the Throttle shaft. I noticed the Brass bushing has a groove worn in it from the Oring. Can that be replaced? I looks like it presses out, Anyone have a part number for it and the Oring? Ok next thing is when I tried to get the fuel pin out it didnt want to come so I pryed it with a screwdriver, Not real hard But I did pry it, It popped loose. I then realiized there is a slight Lip on one side so if I would have turned it around it would have came out, Now Do you think it hurt anything? I put it back in and Worked it with my finger on the lever and it seemed Smooth and I didnt see any broken Pieces.
Thank you,
I was banned per my own request for speaking the name Pelosi
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,908
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From: Bristol Michigan
Are you talking about the pin with the cone shape to it? As long as you didn't bend it or score it, it should be alright, but make sure the pin inside still functions, the one that prevented you from taking the cone out. It will pop in and out by turning the throttle with your hand. Don't do this with the engine running. When the pin pops out and the cone is not there to stop it, it will come out too far and fill the area with fuel. The pin with the cone can be taken out by turning it until it clears the other, then just lift. As long as your fuel pin pops in and out with the throttle, put it together, run the truck(open the throttle while it's running and make sure it doesn't stutter) , then look back in to see if it filled with fuel. If no fuel, and it didn't stutter, the seal should be ok. I was tuff on mine the first time and it leaked fuel in the reservoir for awhile, but did clear itself up.
The throttle shaft leak seems to be part of life with the mileage, haven't had to do it yet, and most recommend to do it anyway when you put the gov spring in. Still on my to-do list. There is a seal kit available, I don't remember who, but I thought I saw part #'s posted before.
Sorry if this isn't completely clear, still working on the coffee, and the phones have been ringing, just thought you might want to get a jump on it early for what it's worth.
Don
The throttle shaft leak seems to be part of life with the mileage, haven't had to do it yet, and most recommend to do it anyway when you put the gov spring in. Still on my to-do list. There is a seal kit available, I don't remember who, but I thought I saw part #'s posted before.
Sorry if this isn't completely clear, still working on the coffee, and the phones have been ringing, just thought you might want to get a jump on it early for what it's worth.
Don
Redleg, Thanks for the reply. The cone pin with the diaphragm on it (Old Smokey Pin) is the part that I had to pry out. The little pin inside is what I am worried about. I put the cone back in and held the lever on the bottom side and worked the cone up and down and it seemed to work the lever smoothly. I didnt see any Chunks of the little pin so I have to say it did not break but I just want to make sure. I will search for the part number for the seal kit.
Thank you again,
BB....................
Thank you again,
BB....................
I was banned per my own request for speaking the name Pelosi
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,908
Likes: 0
From: Bristol Michigan
I was more concerned about damageing the lock, spring or seal that maintains the fuel pin. With the pin locked in the pump housing, you still have to turn the eccentric cone back to stock to get it out. For best truck performance turn it 90 deg., so the steepest angle is on the fuel pin when putting it back in. Also, the fuel pin sticks for some guys and doesn't ride the cone like it should, while you're in there clean it up, if it isn't already, don't use anything that harms seals.
Well I have searched for an hour and the closest thing I come up with was it had to be taken to an injection shop and have the part Pressed out and back in. I really wish I could find the part numbers because I can press it in and out at my Shop. I would rather order the parts online cause The Jection shop in Denver is VERY SLOW. I also want to do Injectors, What is recomended? I am looking at the PODs.
Well I just got back from Rocky Mountain Diesel Injection and they Pressed the old Bushing out and installed a New Updated Steel one so I should have her back togather tonight.
They charged me $25 and change for the job including a new Top to bottom seal.
They charged me $25 and change for the job including a new Top to bottom seal.
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Hey Redleg, I've been looking all night for info on that pin tht rides on the cone. I was worried mine broke off or something. I noticed last time I had the cone out, I forgot to put that plastic bushing back in, but at the same time I had it out, I back out the fuel screw to see if that looked ok, and put it back in where it was. It ran like it never did before, but idled way too fast, I pulled it back apart, to find that that little pin didn't appear when I worked the throttle. Any advice? Sorry for the subject change, but you're the first one who seems to know about that problem.
Make sure your throttle shaft isn't worn or grooved either. Did you get the part number for the updated bushing? I had it once, but have lost the receipt. For the o-ring it's found in the VE seal kit, Bosch part number DGK-121.
That info was posted in one of my threads here, I'll see if I can find it...
Here it is...:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=176231
Here it is...:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=176231
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