S/D,
I have done it both ways.
Pulling the boots but mostly the snap ring and shifter stub is a bit of a pain.
I would not trust just pouring it down the shifter stub and let it work its way down as I am sure it would pick up all sorts of metal bits and dirt.

When I do this fluid swap on the RC, I will get it up to temp. by running it in gear with the T-case in N for a while. Or drive it for a while.
I will then drain it totally. I will then pull the top PTO cover bolt and fill it using the free "nipple caps" that come on the Gear oil QT to squeeze the 5W30 in till it starts to pour out the top hole.
The PTO bolt then goes back in.

You could also just fill it to the normal fill port and then add another QT through the top PTO bolt to top it off.

 

They mean to take out one of the top bolts of the power takeoff cover on the driver's side and fill it through the hole. I suppose you can do it on the passenger side, but the drain is on the driver's side...Mark

 

I just added an NPT threaded pipe elbow and then a pipe cap to the original fill hole. That was about 180,000 miles ago on a rebuilt getrag.

 

Thanks, That is on my list along with diff fluid and have heard people say about doing the 360 both ways.

 

I got out in the RC for a bit today. I must have put 60 miles on it, as I was getting a Milwaukee saw-Z-all fixed at the dealer a few towns over.
The RC drove great and came home with no new things on the "to fix" list.
I do love those '92/'93 style bucket seats, they are so comfy.

 

x2!

 

The Gauntlet is in the shop getting a pre-Carlisle work over.
First thing was mounting some nice 2nd hand Auto Meter boost and Pyro gauges I on the shelf in a two gauge Auto Meter A-pillar mount.

I tapped into the radio fuse under the steering column for my key on power using a fuse tap, so no lines where disturbed.

I tapped into the manifold for my boost source using a boost bolt from Geno's.

A fresh pyro probe was installed in the manifold before mounting up the rebuilt 2nd gen turbo when I was going through the motor before install a few years ago.

There are a few other things I want to dail in before it leaves the shop for a test drive. Since it only has one turn on the fuel screw and the fuel pin turned the "dark" side I expect pretty tame #s.
There is a THD fuel pin on the work table to try out later if I decide I want a little more pep for the trip....

 

Well I have been testing and tuning a bunch now that I have gauges.

The rebuilt WH1C turbo has the waste gate set at 20 PSI which was fine for my old fuel settings. When I add fuel the boost is too low.
I tried pinching closed the waste gate hose for a test. I barely got 22 PSI.
I then disconnected the waste gate hose completely and got 35 PSI which is more than I want. The turbo is making plenty of boost...
I then tried a boost fooler valve which only gave me 22 again.

After adding the THD fuel pin and removing the nylon washer, I got a bunch of smoke at WOT from down low to the top end, but still only 22 PSI with the boost fooler still installed. I need more air and less fuel...

Back at the shop the THD pin comes out, the stock pin goes back in turned to the deep side and the nylon washer was shaved down to about 3/16 down from 5/16. Yes I used my super accurate Stanley 30FT tape measure.
The waste gate was removed and I shortened the rod by 3 complete turns. I read that a complete turn is worth about 3 PSI...
More road testing with the newly tuned up waste gate. The smoke is gone but I still am struggling to get much over 20 PSI. The waste gate seems pretty weak.

That is where it sits right now after a few nights of tinkering around with it. I still want to get about 30 PSI max and then tune the fuel level to run cleanly at that PSI with some safe ETG #s.

I have a used spring waste gate set up in the shop to try next. It appears to be an old BD unit, though I can't find anyone that still sells them for the Cummins motors.

 

Well after dinner I got the spring gate style waste gate installed. Getting that C-clip installed was a long game this time. I must have dropped that little C-clip 20 times.

Working on the waste gate of the turbo while it is installed in the truck is a bit of a struggle.
I hope to get time to test it out tomorrow. This system is at least adjustable with out popping off the C-clip on the end of the rod.

 

I haven't done anything like that on the Cummins, but I have a Mercedes 300 SDL that has a wastegate bar that is right on top of the 2 bolts that hold the oil line to the turbo. The end of the rod is held by a little c clip. Well, I was able to get it off, which made the turbo removal real easy. Well, logic tells me that I should put it back in the same way, with out the clip and rod in the way. To make a long story short, after dropping the *#!!*&%!!?**^ clip about a thousand times, I had to remove the turbo and put it on. I then had to fight the 2 oil line bolts. The turbo on that car is down low on the passenger side and a pain in the hiney to get to...Mark

 

I used the Gillet diesel 30psi waste gate on mine. I have seen a bit over 25 PSI before I had to let off the throttle.

 

I have a Banks 14CM exhaust housing with the Big Head waste gate installed on it in the shop that I bought in '08. If the spring gate doesn't work like I want it too, my next plan is grab that Big Head off it and give that a shot.

 

Sounds like a good plan.

 

I got to test out the spring gate on a lunch time run to the hardware store to pick up some more C-clips I was so good at dropping last night.

My initial setting was a little strong as I got 34 PSI quickly and it was still climbing when I let off the fuel pedal. I stopped off the road and used my 13MM wrench to take out a complete turn of the tension nut. Boost now was 34.
After my lunch stop, I took another turn out of it and got 32PSI.
I will take another turn out of it now that I am back at the shop.

With the extra air I have zero smoke under WOT other than the initial small puff when you hit it.
It is almost 100* outside here and EGTs where under 1100 at full tilt.

I am liking the new spring gate set up for its easy adjustability. I can adjust my PSI settings in less than 10 seconds with one wrench....COOL!

 

I wondered about how the spring setup would work. I have seen pictures but never seen any reviews .