RedWhiteDiesel

Well I got my 16cm housing and installed it yesterday, and what a difference. Does that ever spool up quick compared to the old one. I also got rid of my air box, so it really sounds like a jet now! I cant wait until my POD's come in on Tuesday!! Just as a general question, is there anything that i should be concerned about dealing with these injectors? As in install, or actually running them. Thanks for the help<br>Brian

Lil Dog

With an 89 and the big injectors..<br><br>EGT!!!<br><br>I only put in the lower hp injectors in my 89 and could register 1250°F on the pyro on flat ground unloaded. I would think you may be watching that gauge pretty close..<br><br>Je-h

Holsteinman

Do you have your truck intercooled? I would not use POD's without an intercooler. POD's have can do a good job of melting things.

nascar mark

You will be fine. Just watch your temps and remember the 20 sec rule for anything over 1250 degs.

RedWhiteDiesel

Will an intercooler help with egt's? I have thought about installing one, but the price setback is what has turned me away from it.

wannadiesel

An intercooler will help a lot. You get denser air into the engine which burns more of your fuel, which will help with EGT.

RedWhiteDiesel

Ok, now the question is where do I look to get one? I know banks makes a kit, but their prices always seem very high, but they do have a great product. Any suggestions?

wannadiesel

Unless you know if a 1st gen junkyard, I think the Banks kit is your only option. You don't have to get the whole Stinger Plus package to get the intercooler, they'll sell you just the intercooler kit, which includes the plumbing, the cooler, and a custom grill insert to make enough room for the intercooler. I looked into it when I was looking for my truck (so I would have a good idea of how much less I'd be willing to pay for non intercooled trucks), and it goes for about $900, which I didn't think was out of line for what you get. It's supposed to flow more air than the stock intercoolers, too.

RedWhiteDiesel

Very cool - thanks for the help

thumbs

What is the trick for gettin the nuts off the studs that hold the turbo to the manifold on my 92? I have soaked them for a couple of days with PB Blaster and I can't brake em loose. I want to put in the pyro tomorrow and would like to get the turbo off for two reasons. First the chips due to the drill and tapping for the pyro and second for the 16cm in the future. If I get em loose now I won't have a problem when I change out the housing.<br><br>Thanks

Alec

That is great on the turbo housing install -- it is hard to believe how bad the stock housing is, huh? I assume that you do have a pyro -- and if you do, well, your right foot controls the reliability and life of your engine. As Mark said.<br><br>Thumbs -- <br><br>The best answer is a torch -- a little heat and rust seems to turn into grease for some reason (not even a dull red is all you need). <br><br>I used a high quality box end wrench as a &quot;striking wrench&quot; -- put the wrench on good and square, and gave it a nice sharp rap with a 3lb sledge. If the wrench is stiff enough, it is as good as an impact wrench, and will often loosen suff up without breaking it better than a steady pull. If you don't hit it square, though, or have a soft wrench, you can make a complete mess of the hardware . . .<br><br>Good luck,<br><br>Alec

wannadiesel

[quote author=thumbs link=board=9;threadid=17539;start=0#164655 date=1059354788]<br>What is the trick for gettin the nuts off the studs that hold the turbo to the manifold on my 92? I have soaked them for a couple of days with PB Blaster and I can't brake em loose. I want to put in the pyro tomorrow and would like to get the turbo off for two reasons. First the chips due to the drill and tapping for the pyro and second for the 16cm in the future. If I get em loose now I won't have a problem when I change out the housing.<br><br>Thanks<br>[/quote]<br>Geez, now I feel bad. I was complaining about getting the housing off the turbo, and you can't get the turbo off the manifold. I soaked the nuts with PB the night before, and they came right off in the morning. Didn't have to use a cheater bar or anything. If your bolts are this bad, I can't imagine how bad your housing's gonna be. I tapped on mine for 20 minutes before it moved at all, took me an hour to get it off without hurting the turbine. Maybe you should just skip straight to the PDR HX35 and save yourself the aggravation.

RedWhiteDiesel

Now a question about my Getrag....I have read several posts that say to run 5w-30 and run it a quart over to extend the life of the trans. Why is running 5w-30 over gear lube better with trans life, and what is the best method to put that extra quart in? Thanks again<br>Brian

wannadiesel

The bearings in the Getrag were designed for a thin lube like 5w-30, I'm using Redline MTL, a synthetic lube specifically designed for manual transmissions that require thin oil. I found it shifts easier with Redline than with motor oil. Thick oils apparently don't flow well enough for these transmissions, the bearings don't get enough lube due to small clearances. I did my overfill by replacing the fill plug with a close nipple and an elbow (pointing straight up) , then putting the fill plug in the elbow when I was done.

thumbs

Well I got the nuts off without to much problem this morning. I was able to get the 3/8 10 inch extention on the nuts but had to go to a half inch breaker bar. They were tight but broke loose.<br><br>The problem is the boost. Empty and only a few minutes of testing it out but I can only get 10 lbs of boost out of the ole girl. I ran er up in fourth to the gov on an incline and the pyro went to 1100 but the boost only went to 10lbs. Not much else yet but I don't think I get any boost just normal driveing even at 55 or 60. The boost seems to start at 1500 rpm under load. Is this normal for a stock 92?