Took the dodge out fishing the other day and had to put it in 4 wheel. When I left the fishing hole I left the hubs in, transfer out, to lube the front axle up. I was getting a bad vibration that was new. Checked around when I got home and I found that the axle shaft between the spindel and the housing (where the u-joint and nuckel joints are) was moving around in the housing and the Right side wasn't. I guess there is some kind of needle bearings in there that went bad? Has anyone else had this problem if so what was it and how do I fix it?

Paws

 

Yes, there is a roller bearing pressed into the inside of the spindle that carries the stub-shaft. You have to take the spindle off to pull out the old bearing (and seal) and press in a new one. You also probably have a bad u-joint on that side which contributed to the demise of the bearing.

Dunno if that was helpful, doubt it is what you wanted to hear.

Alec

 

Thats what I wanted to hear, its got to get fixed. Yes the u-joint is starting to go out and that is probably what caused the failure of both bearings. On a good note neither seal is knocked out yet . How about the bearing and seal in the axle housing how did you get those out? Does the axle shaft that goes to the diff. just pull out? You said that the bearing for the stub shaft is pressed in, so no race? Do you know the bearing number and seal number by chance? How did you get the spindel off of the nuckel joints? Sorry for all of the Q's but never had to work on a Dana 60 before, I guess 200K will take it out of it huh.

Thanks for the help
Paws

 

If its any thing like all the other trucks Ive done once you remove the wheel,caliper, hub etc if you have one, you will end up with a hollow spindle with the stub axle through it. the spindles are bolted on with 6 or 8 bolts. remove them and then the spindle will come off, There is a machined ridge on the spindle that bears the load so to say, so it may need to be tapped to get loose. inside this you will see the needle bearing for the axle,and the seal, it can be tapped out or a slide hammer sometimes works. all the 60s ive done on early various 4x4s have been the same I hope yours is to. Now the stub axle will simply slide out.You will need to either drain the front diff oil or jack the side your working on way up to keep the diff oil from running out the pumpkin. Use caution there is a seal inside the diff just outside the pumpkin to keep the gear oil in. Its really pretty simple once your at it. Be easy sliding the axle back in so you dont damage the seal. Follow factory torque specs on reassembly.
Good luck. Apache

 

Thanks apache I'll let you know how it goes, it'll be a month before I get to her.

Paws

 

Hey Paws -- Apache is right on. Just to be clear: the axle shaft is bourne inside the differential by the side gear, leaves the differential housing through a seal that is inside the axle tube, travels down the tube out into the knuckle (no bearing or oil seal at the knuckle on the inside), has the u-joint, then enters the spindle through an oil seal and then the bearing and then attaches to the locking hub . . . a couple snap rings in there. Reading that section of the shop manual probably wouldn't hurt a fellow none if he were going to do the job. Though it ain't Faulkner ;D.

Good luck,

Alec

 

Tho I done this recently it's already fading from memory!
After you remove the brake caliper and support it on some blocks remove the locking hub "cap" with an allen wrench.
Inside there's two snap rings, an outer large one that I removed with a leetle screw driver and a small inner one around the end of the stub axle. Once you remove those you can pull the guts of the hub exposing the outer wheel bearing and its lock nuts. It helps to have the special socket to remove the lock nut because it's difficult with a screw driver. When you pull the rotor/hub assembly don't dump the outer wheel bearing in the dirt like I always do! Once you've removed the rotor, remove the six nuts holding the spindle and pull the splash shield off and carefully knock the spindle loose using a rubber mallet or block of wood.
With the spindle off, just pull the axle assembly straight out.
Clean and/or replace, regrease bearings and while yur at it DO BOTH SIDES! Twice the fun!

brick

 

Funny, I have that same problem with the outer bearing . . . not that I do this, but you can put a rag over the end of the hub and hold it on with a rubber band (industrial strength) to keep dirt out and the bearing in . . .

 

You'd think that after all these years I'd stop doing that! :
I guess I don't do the repair all that often, so I forget and have to relearn each time!

 

Come on -- we all know that dirt makes 'em run better . . .

By the way, Paws, if you are going to bother doing it, you probably should do both sides as suggested, and maybe even replace the upper king-pin bushings . . . They are plastic, and 200,000 miles is a long way to go, and you have to take all of that stuff off to take the knuckle off, so while you're there . . .

Just a thought, and more stuff to drop in the dirt, and clean, and paint . . . Don't know whether to laugh or cry after that.

Alec

 

Thanks for the advise, I'll probably do both sides like you all said and put new nuckle bushings in while I'm there. I'm clear on that there is no bearing in the housing, the axel rides on the carrier and the stub shaft bearing. I was told by a guy that if I didn't have to replace that inner seal in the housing don't. He said I'll end up wishing I never even started the project if I do. Any thoughts on this. Oh time isn't really a factor because I'm getting the getrag rebuilt while the front end is apart. Do you now what size that special socket is to get the rotor off?

Thanks,
Paws

 

Paws,
I got the socket at Napa. I already had one for 1/2 ton/ 3/4 ton but it's diameter was too small. You need to get the one for 1 ton/ Dana 60. Both sockets have 4 cogs (or is it dogs?) on them. You could try the screw driver method, just don't booger-up the inside of the hub - you'll see what I mean.

Chris

 

Go to Napa and get the socket! Trust me! 2 1/4" if I remember right. It aint cheap, but the lock nuts cost a lot more after they get screwed up by the screw driver.

I plan on doing it again soon myself. I just adjusted them when I did the brakes last year. I plan on replacing all, they didn't look rough, but were wore down then. I will look into the king pins as well. I wonder about the seals too. 200,000 miles here too. I guess if it would be too big of a job, I'll hold out on it too.

 

I was looking through my shop manual last nigh and couldn't find the type of hub that I have on my truck in there. I was some type of hub with set screws on it not the type I have on mine, I think they are Spicers. BTW the shop manual sucks for this repair >. Oh the shop manual also said that there is a bearning and a bushing in the spindel, was kinda confused why there would be both. And I'll get the socket from NAPA.

Paws

 

Lots of good advise here. unfortunatly when the needle bearing assembly goes bad it can damage the outter axle shaft you will have to check it out when you get it apart. The needle bearings ride right on the shaft itself.
Another frustrating thing about this job. As it was mentioned earlier the differential seals are all the way to the inside. The axle tubes get full of dirt and grit. It is very hard to clean out that grit. If you dont get it out then while you are putting the axle shaft back in you will be pushing that junk into your seal area and differential. It can cause your seals to start leaking shortly after all your other repairs are done. I have done this job many times and it is quite a chore. I am not trying to discourage you but to hopefully help you have a successful job with no leaks.
Just my 2 cents
Frosty