You mean that you can't get the steering arm off the studs? You did say left side?

If you meant right side, you should just be able to cut into the gasket and pry the cap off by driving a sharp scraper between it and the knuckle -- try not to mutilate it though.

If it is the driver's side you are having trouble with, put the bottom pin back in, spray penetrating oil all over the studs & everything, and tap gently up and down on the end of the arm (where the drag link goes) with as big a hammer as you can fit in there, until it loosens up.

Let us know how you make out and what you did.

Good luck,

Alec

 

Getting the steering arm off the studs is the problem child. It sat in penetrating oil all night so I'm headed down to the shop to try it again. Thanks

Paws

 

Just wanted to say thanks for the help, I got the job done today. As for the steering arm the bath of penitrating oil did the trick.

Paws

 

Congratulations on getting it done.

How did the bushings and old springs look?

Also, how did the changing of the U-joint without pulling the shaft go?

And finally -- how did the spud shaft bearing surface and spindle roller bearing look?

 

I need some help guys, my front end is apart and my manual is MIA. I hate to by another, because I know it's here somewhere.

Torque specs for a '90 W350 hub/bearing adjustment?

Seems like it was like 120lbs, back off 1/4 turn, then 90lbs?

Thanks, Don

 

Inner nut is 30 to 40 ft-lbs while rotating hub and then back off 120 to 135 Deg. This is to achieve 0.001 to 0.010 play so the brake pads will retract as well. The outer nut is 65 ftlbs although I think I did mine a little tighter. Thats the DANA 60 axle in my 91 manual. I also only backed inner off 90 Deg since my bearings are wearing and had too much play at 120 Deg. Main thing is to not have any preload (torque) applied by inner nut since these bearings do not like that.

 

Thanks Sootblower, are you getting that right from a manual? It seems like there is a step missing. It seems like last time I had to tighten the first nut Tighter than 40lbs to seat the bearing (while rotating) then back off and retighten, then back off again?

Also, I forgot to ask about the spindle nuts. Were those 45lbs, and go on dry?

 

You are right. I went back and looked again at my 1991 manual. The inner nut has three steps as follows:
1) tighten to 50 ft-lbs
2) loosen and then torque to 30 to 40 ft-lbs while rotating
3) back off 120 to 135 degrees

Then rest is same as previous post. Hope this helps.

 

asilitch,

The old bushings and springs looked good so I didn't end up replacing them.

After I got the puller built it went really well, I didnt damage the seal or get dirt into my diff oil. I think I broke even when you look at the time it would take to fix the seal, dump the oil clean the housing, ect.

The stub shaft looked like new, the bearing wasn't completely gone yet but was full of dirty grease, bad seal. The large ammount of play was from the bad ujoint, it was SHOT. Because I didn't use 4wd with the ujoint out that save what was left of my bearing thus saving my stub shaft.

I did do both sides for good measure, I think someone said twice the fun but dont forget its also twice the price. Spent 110 on just the two ujoints but its all done for the next two years.

Paws

 

Thanks Sootblower. If anybody is interested I learned last night, the race and inner bearing are sold seperately, now I have to make another trip. The outers come together. :

Paws, I know what you mean. I had one U-joint out without checking prices first. It was still tight, but wasn't greased for awhile when I bought the truck, so I figured I would change it while I had it apart. $55 at Napa. I'll need to do the axle seals in a while, and I'll wait and have the other done then. I still need to check my king-pins.

Also, for the guys using synthetic grease, you should still check your hubs, at least if you've worked around water. My front end was submerged, when I got stuck at deer camp. I packed the bearings and put new seals in and used synthetic grease a year earlier. Some water still got in there. I had some spots where the water got between the greese and steel, that were starting to rust. I cleaned them up with emery paper. Luckily these spots didn't reach any races to seize to the hub, or bearing surfaces to pit. I did have one side that had slight play to it, I found. I'm sure the syntheic did help keep this side from cooking. I almost always feel my hubs for heat on long hauls. Had water mixed in the front diff and t-case too. Both have been drained.

 

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/

Has the best prices overall that I have found for front axle parts. Greaseable spicer joint for the axle was $49, and local places wanted almost twice as much for kingpin bushing, springs, etc. than this guy, PLUS the fact that they couldn't seem to actually get them delivered.

Paws -- did you measure the spring height on the upper king-pin? The springs take a set over time, and reduce the pre-load on the king-pins. That pre-load acts as a steering damper. I suppose I should have mentioned that earlier . . . On the other hand, if your steering feels tight, then you are probably fine anyway.

I am glad to hear the the u-joint puller idea worked out well.

 

Spring height? No I didn't but the next time I do this I will, what is the proper spring length anyway. Its nice to know that a guy can get good prices for these trucks somewhere.

Paws

 

The new springs are nominally 2 5/16 inches.

Yeah, it is hard to keep track of where to get what and who has it and what they charge. Drives me nuts. Don't ask me how much I paid for Redi Sleeves for my rear axle wheel seals . . .
Hopefully you won't need a next time!

Alec

 

Thats about what they were.

Paws