That's what I meant by "not quite direct". I had a friend do it and I guess he did the same thing(pull the seal) but after installing it he had to pull it again and plug up some holes in the adapter with JBweld as he was losing fluid. Also he was never able to get the computer on his first Gen to activate OD and TC lockup so he just wired them both to come on with a swt on the end of the gear shifter. But this caused his cruise control not to work as well. Unfortuanly I've lost touch with him so I can'nt get more info. I just remember from talking with him that it wasn't as easy as he thought it would be.

 

Don't you also have to get a starter that matches the new bell-housing length?

DBF

 

As to the wiring, would I bring those leads into the cab and wire my own switches somewhere? How would lockup be handled?

Thanks.

Harlan

 

Close, a newer starter is need, but the length is not different, the bolt pattern (only 1 doesn't line up) and the way the starter is clocked is also different, tweaking the frame up a tad so it doesn't rub is advisable. I chose not to use my old starter as I felt that only 2 bolts just wouldn't be a good idea and the area for drilling and tapping for the third one was a little thin for my tastes.



Make the center wire +12v and the front wire is overdrive, the rear wire is lockup. Setup 2 switches to switch ground to these wires and put them on the dash or other convient place.

Warning, big site. If you can't find a 3 pin connector from the junk yard, don't sweat it. These guys have them, but at $39 or so, a junk yard one is much more econimical.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm

That 3 disc converter looks good there doesn't it, you can also see the NP205 peaking out there in the back.

 

What year starter do I need? I assume one off a 2nd Gen, 94 - 95?

I'm still a bit confused about the lockup. How would I determine when the appropriate time to engage the lockup would be? Would it be when the engine speed levels out and the truck speed stops increasing?

EDIT: after looking at your gallery JD, I'm convinced that now is the time to do this job, since I have everything off the frame except the transmission and engine.

Also, I'm looking at getting this transmission and having it rebuilt. What do you guys think?

 

You are correct on the starter only 94-02, because thats what years the bellhousing adaptor is from.

You'll know when to lock it once you start driving it. DON'T lock it and lug it, worst thing you can do with it.

I don't know what kind of converter your going to use, but do yourself a favor and don't use a stock one and do yourself another favor and don't have one built with too low of a stall speed either. The pics in my gallery are from when I put my Goerend 3 disc torque converter and valvebody in. Do it once and do it right, it'll save money and aggervation in the long run.

If your going to go and have that transmission rebuilt, ask them if they will install parts you supply from Goerend, DTT, ATS, Suncoast, etc. Or call one of the big trans guys and ask them what they think too. Dave Goerend is real nice to talk to.

edit: I almost forgot to mention, when doing a conversion like this it is very important that you use the correct throttle valve lever, the one that comes on the trans is for 94-02 and won't work correctly. And the lever you'll use is the one you have on your 727 right now. Clear as mud? Good.

 

Jump on that tranny, 150 is a good price.

 

I thought so too. What should I expect to pay for a rebuild? Over $1k?

 

It depends on who and where? I have been building my own, and can do a stock rebuild without converter for about 250.00 in parts. I just did a unit with a billet input shaft, and a billet triple disc and upgraded the number of clutches in the drums,the price went up dramatically with all of the "goodies"

 

I'm thinking I'll do a stock rebuild, maybe with a better converter. Anyone have reccomendations for a converter?

 

Dave Goerend is awsome, and has great prices with the best warranty in the business. 563-778-2719

 

I 2nd that, might want to go with a valve body too to match his torque converter.

 

Just make sure it's a stock DIESEL rebuild, or it won't last.