2 1/16" Guage install problem
#1
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Thread Starter
2 1/16" Guage install problem
Ok so I got my 4000rpm Isspro gauge in today and starting wiring everything up using the instructions in the sticky https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...58&postcount=3
Got everything wired up turned the truck on had power to the gauge light, but the gauge is not picking up a signal. Hmmmmm
I checked all connections and everything is connected right, but as I looked closely at the sticky I realized that there is some sort of fuse crossed out for the white signal wire to the gray wire. (Instructions for a 3 3/8" gauge) Before I go any further I just wanted to make sure that not having the fuse for my signal wire is infact the problem?
Thanks for any input
Got everything wired up turned the truck on had power to the gauge light, but the gauge is not picking up a signal. Hmmmmm
I checked all connections and everything is connected right, but as I looked closely at the sticky I realized that there is some sort of fuse crossed out for the white signal wire to the gray wire. (Instructions for a 3 3/8" gauge) Before I go any further I just wanted to make sure that not having the fuse for my signal wire is infact the problem?
Thanks for any input
#2
Registered User
Sorry I can't help you directly with experience with this problem.
Looks to me from the diagram that you don't want that fuse, or filter, just remove, or bypass it and hook the white or yellow to the gray in the connector?
Looks to me from the diagram that you don't want that fuse, or filter, just remove, or bypass it and hook the white or yellow to the gray in the connector?
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Right now I have it connected without the fuse, white(yellow) directly to grey. I hooked a test light up to the black(red) and white wire and I am getting no signal, which leads me to believe maybe I damaged the computer. Only thing I am getting power to is the orange wire for power to the gauge light. My check engine light does not go off anymore either, so I think this may be my problem
#5
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Thread Starter
Sorry my bad, the check engine light doesn't stay in its the E-brake and anti lock light that stays on. Before all of this they would always go out, I don't know if thats telling me something. Can someone tell me if a test light should pick up a signal from the black(red) and white wires while engine is running?
#6
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Thread Starter
A little more trouble shooting later, my blinkers don't work now and when I turn my headlights on my radio light goes dim. Leads me to believe I have a ground problem now....ah I hate wiring
#7
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Thread Starter
I have no idea what this is but I noticed that it was getting REALLY hot, I disconnected the battery and it would cool down. I don't know if it means anything....
Right now I have everything from the Tach disconnected, and the e-brake, anti-lock lights don't go out, blinkers don't work (hazards do), when headlights turned on radio light goes dim, ac works still, overdrive works, all fuses are good.
Right now I have everything from the Tach disconnected, and the e-brake, anti-lock lights don't go out, blinkers don't work (hazards do), when headlights turned on radio light goes dim, ac works still, overdrive works, all fuses are good.
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#8
Registered User
That little aluminum cylinder is a thermal timer, so to speak. It's probably for your ignition light or some other option that requires a timed "on" period.
Here's how it works say for your ignition lamp, when you open your door the doom light comes on, and then the power to this relay begins. At the same time the ignition lamp will come on. Once you close your door the dome light goes off and the power to this relay stops, BUT, due to the thermal energy it has stored it will continue to power the ignition lamp for another few seconds. The time is relevant to how long the door was open, but the relay will reach a point where it can no longer store anymore energy and this is the longest it can run the ignition lamp.
So if your door has been open for a while this relay will get hot!!
Here's how it works say for your ignition lamp, when you open your door the doom light comes on, and then the power to this relay begins. At the same time the ignition lamp will come on. Once you close your door the dome light goes off and the power to this relay stops, BUT, due to the thermal energy it has stored it will continue to power the ignition lamp for another few seconds. The time is relevant to how long the door was open, but the relay will reach a point where it can no longer store anymore energy and this is the longest it can run the ignition lamp.
So if your door has been open for a while this relay will get hot!!
#9
Unless it's untaxed, then it's red.
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I don't know about all the other problems yer having, but for the tach I needed to use the "filter" in the wire harness that came with it. Nobody seems to know what this magic "filter" does but it was the only way I could get my tack to work. I tried making my own connections first with thermostat wire but the needle would jump when I fired the truck and then go dead.
Good luck
Good luck
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
That little aluminum cylinder is a thermal timer, so to speak. It's probably for your ignition light or some other option that requires a timed "on" period.
Here's how it works say for your ignition lamp, when you open your door the doom light comes on, and then the power to this relay begins. At the same time the ignition lamp will come on. Once you close your door the dome light goes off and the power to this relay stops, BUT, due to the thermal energy it has stored it will continue to power the ignition lamp for another few seconds. The time is relevant to how long the door was open, but the relay will reach a point where it can no longer store anymore energy and this is the longest it can run the ignition lamp.
So if your door has been open for a while this relay will get hot!!
Here's how it works say for your ignition lamp, when you open your door the doom light comes on, and then the power to this relay begins. At the same time the ignition lamp will come on. Once you close your door the dome light goes off and the power to this relay stops, BUT, due to the thermal energy it has stored it will continue to power the ignition lamp for another few seconds. The time is relevant to how long the door was open, but the relay will reach a point where it can no longer store anymore energy and this is the longest it can run the ignition lamp.
So if your door has been open for a while this relay will get hot!!
I don't know about all the other problems yer having, but for the tach I needed to use the "filter" in the wire harness that came with it. Nobody seems to know what this magic "filter" does but it was the only way I could get my tack to work. I tried making my own connections first with thermostat wire but the needle would jump when I fired the truck and then go dead.
Good luck
Good luck
Thanks guys
#12
Unless it's untaxed, then it's red.
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Damascus MD
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I had my black wires backwards during my install too. And I ran the truck like that and didn't fry anything. Did you get the steering column pod mount? Let me know if the gauge fits mine didn't and I ended up with a heat gun and leather gloves stretching the plastic to fit the gauge.
Again, good luck
Again, good luck
Last edited by #2isgreen; 08-24-2010 at 04:03 PM. Reason: spelling
#14
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Thread Starter
Ac works, seems to be charging as well, I'll go out right now and see if the od works.
hey #2isgreen the column wasn't the best fit in the world but I did manage to make it work, just used the stick tape and 4 plasitc inserts in the kit
hey #2isgreen the column wasn't the best fit in the world but I did manage to make it work, just used the stick tape and 4 plasitc inserts in the kit
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