So I look on the ground today and I have two puddles where there used to be one. One is the injector pump which I have been putting off. But the new one is somewhere near the fuel filter and I can't see where its coming from. Is there anything known for springing leaks up there that I should check?

I figure I am going to change the fuel filter first as it could be the gasket on top (or the dumb thing may have rusted out) and it hasn't been changed since 40K miles ago, so it could use a new one anyway. Also, I have never changed the fuel filter before (it has been changed before, but Dad did it last), will removing it take the prime off the system? Or can I just drop it down, fill the new one up, pump the lift pump a few times and then fire it up?

Finally, any recommendations on what I should replace it with? Just got to the dealer, or is there something that fits in the stock position without making modifications that will serve me better? I saw another thread mentioned the FS1221 from Fleetguard, is that what I want?

 

While you're changing the fuel filter, put a new seal on the fuel heater. The heater is right above the filter and very likley is the culprit of your second leak. The heater is held on by the filter spud. ( the threaded shaft the filter spins on to) Pull the spud off and there is a square cut o-ring between the heater and head.

It will loose prime but fill the filter with some 2 stroke oil or fuel additive before spinning it on. Then crack open the bleed screw right above the filter/heater assembly and give the LP primer a few strokes until fuel runs out the bleeder. You should be good after that.

As for what filter to use, I switched to the oversized on from the sticky a few years ago without problems.

 

Hmm, OK. I cant see in there too well, so many lines going everywhere and such. What do I have to take off to get at this stuff? Does the throttle linkage need to come off? What about any of the fuel lines? I don't have line wrenches with me... is there a picture of the thing disassembled somewhere online so I can see what I am aiming for?

 

You shouldn't need to take anything off to change the filter. Just spin it off with a filter wrench if necessary. be carefull not to dump it over taking it out is all. I can usually change mine just by spinning it by hand.

 

Spin off the filter.
Disconect the Fuel heater electrical conector.
Remove the fuel filter stud and remove the heater. (straight down like the filter)
Replace O-ring.
Reinstall heater and filter stud.
Install new filter.
Reconnect fuel heater Elec. and WIF Elec(if using stock filter)
Bleed system.
Start engine and check for leaks.

 

OK, that don't sound too horribly bad. Anyone know the part number and/or source for the o-ring or is it something standard I can get anywhere?

I did some searching on this and have run into several non-specific warnings about not breaking the fuel heater itself. Is this thing fragile or something?

 

I believe they are refering to the fuel heater elec connector. The heater can spin a bit when removing the stud.

P/N will take a bit of searching.....

 

Here are some part numbers.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...2&postcount=18

 

Great, thanks for that. Add those to my little spreadsheet. Found the following related numbers on another forum...



The question is, if I do manage to bugger up the fuel heater, will things still work without it? What I really need is to find an exploded diagram of this thing so I can see how stuff goes together. No luck finding such a thing online, either.

 

I ran without the fuel heater all last winter after I installed a new filter head. In sub zero temps a couple times, as well. You don't need it if the fuel is treated for anti-gel.

 

Where did you get the filter head at? They still selling new ones of those?

 

I found this on eBay:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_123.jpg

The part# says it is for an IH combine. But any filter head that'll mount at least a 10um fuel filter will work as long as you can come up a way to mount it. Bigger is better for flow and longevity.

 

Hmm, maybe I should just look at adding an external filter, then I could do multiple stages as well. I am afraid to take this thing apart, because if I don't get it back together, well, the truck ain't going no where 'till I do.

I'm not too fond of that system there. I like metal fuel lines, not hoses although the later is easier to splice and repair on the road.

 

The main feed from the tanks is 3/8" seamless stainless tubing. The only rubber is the short pieces around the pumps and filters.

 

Well, if for no other reason, deleting the factory filter and replacing it with something else would make the dumb thing easier to get to. I did some searching around quickly for a new head unit, found this site. Any reason why one of those triple units like the 79 / 1000 FHV would not work? Or is running fuel through three filters a bad idea due to the drop in pressure? The website is kinda hard to understand, but they way I have it figured out the 79/1000 unit takes size 2020 filters, which you can get in 30 micron, 10 micron and 2 micron types. Of course, website don't say what it costs, have to call them to find out. Betting its not cheap.