Those would be exhorbitantly expensive. I'd be thinking more along the lines of this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=400014573768

Fuel filters (all spin-on filters, for that matter) are basically interchangeable betweeen several standard thread/mount sizes. I did not even know what filter I'd be using until after I got the head. Then I looked up the biggest filter at the smallest micron rating Wix sold for that thread mount.

The important thing is to find something you can mount where you want it. The rest is just nuts, bolts, and plumbing.

 

I started to jump all over that eBay link you listed -
UNTIL I read the listing carefully ---

IT's just a single standard filter head and the seller is including 2 filters.....

IF it was a dual head for that price I'd have grabbed it long ago...
Along with at least 100 others.

 

Well, I called to see what the price was for the one on the website, the 79 / 1000 FHV is $1,530.51 plus freight and that's the non-marine version. A bit more than what I wanted to pay to solve this issue. But I do like the idea of a three stage filter. Are they all this expensive?

 

Two of the same filters doesn't buy you much. The way I did it was using a coarser or larger rated (10um) pre-filter right after the tanks and a finer or smaller micron rated (5um) primary filter right before the VE. That way, I get good protection for the lift pumps, and even better longer-lasting protection for the VE. Here's a link to the write-up I posted about it on 1stGen:

http://www.1stgen.org/viewtopic.php?t=3283

 

Well, its not three of the same filters. Its a 30 prefilter, then a 10, then a 2 and then off to the VE. Of course, you could order the same filters and have a 10 and 2 -2s, or something like that. But it comes from the factory with 30/10/2 in that order and that seems to me to be a pretty good setup.

I think I have heard of some people deleting the manual lift pump and putting an electric one in its place, is that possible? If so, then I could mount this thing in the fuel cabinet that's going under my flat bed (which will be lockable and is, right now, going to be directly behind the driver's side door and will house the fillup snout for the custom tank), have an electric lift pump in there as well sucking out of the custom tank, then everything is really nice and easy to get to. I can sit on a stool and screw around with the dumb thing.

So then I'd have:

Custom Frame Tank -> Electric Lift Pump -> Pressure Sending Unit 'T' Fitting -> 79 / 1000 FHV -> Fuel Pressure Sending Unit 'T' Fitting -> Bleeder -> Manual Shutoff Valve

Then up in the engine compartment, I'd have:

Bleeder -> VE Pump

After that, there ain't nothing to leak except the VE and the high pressure lines. Might cost alot, but it will be a premium system that wont give me nearly as many problems as the factory has.

The question is, this filtration system, with a 30/10/2 filters is going to put a 2.5# drop on the system when its clean and it has a maximum working pressure of 15#. On our trucks, what does the LP normally generate? What does the VE pump need? If put in an electric LP substitute that makes 15#, that means after the filters I am gonna only have 12.5#, maybe less. What does the VE pump need to run properly and not cause undue strain on it?

 

I've got a about $600 in my entire fuel system upgrade, most all of it just old junk people dumping off eBay. It was a year-long on-going project that I hope pays for itself many years down the road. I don't expect to have to even change a filter(s) for years to come.

Aux tank $150 (cost more to ship than the price of the item)
Fuel gauge $40
Filler Neck $15
Elec. Pump $150
Piston pump $40
Stainless Line $40 (the roll I got did three vehicles)
Rubber Tubing $40? (it was moved, cut or relpaced so many times I lost count)
Valves $20
Filters/head $100
Fittings & Clamps $50?
______
$605 (IIRC, just from memory)

The clamps, fittings & rubber tubing was the only thing I didn't get off eBay

 

Well, if it saves you a VE, it definitely paid for itself. Cant even buy a crappy rebuilt for that.

 

I believe that's 2nd gen 12 valve stuff there...

 

Or is it best to put the electric pump ahead of the filter(s), so that the electric lift pump sucks fuel through the filter system, instead of pushing it through? I can't decide what to do. I wish I knew more about fuel systems, specifically how the VE pump works.

Meh, just when I though I had something useful. Oh well, I write down part numbers as I run across them. It the "verified" column doesn't say "Yes" on my spreadsheet, then the part number is just something to get started with, not to be trusted yet.

 

My 92 5.9 ctd engine I'm putting in my k5 also was leaking at the filter and the pump. I will try and rebuild the pump my self with the help of a buddy and will try using the filter housing off an 01 cause I really like the one on my 02 and probably go with an electric pump, I have a fass on my 02 but will probably go with somthing cheaper on the k5.

 

Hey Ace, what kind of fittings did you use to connect your tubing to the hose? At the parker store down here where I get my pushlok stuff they don't really have, what I think, is a good way to go from tubing to a pushlok barb fitting.

Aaron

 

None. The OD of the stainless is slightly larger than the ID of the rubber. A little gear RTV, shove it on a couple inches, two clamps and it's good to go.

 

You want to push the fuel through the filters. The only exception to this are primaries like the Racor and Davco.

 

Well, the unit I am looking at is a Racor. Is that a primary? I fear I'm not familiar with the definition of the term. To me, the first filter in the line (usually the one with the largest size rating) is the primary and then there are secondary (one or more) and a final filter.

 

Correct, but not all primaries are designed to be used on the suction side of the system. Racor makes both types but are most commonly known for their suction side primaries, Davco only makes a suction side unit.