When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1st Gen. Ram - All TopicsDiscussion for all Dodge Rams prior to 1994. This includes engine, drivetrain and non-drivetrain discussions. Anything prior to 1994 should go in here.
I'm slowly restoring my complete, 92 W250 Cummins to a level of quality that is necessarily not showroom, but definitely has a new look. My question is, how difficult is it to
1. Detach and re attach the molding 2. Refurbish/ paint the molding including the chrome tape?
Questions
1. Does anyone have any experience with the 3m two sided tape?
2. Where would I source the chrome tape for the bottom of the mold?
3. Some of the molding is starting to separate. Is it best to remove entirely or use a mastic adhesive of some type ?
My truck had a crappy paint job which put clear coating over all of the aluminum trim on both sides. I decided to delete the trim and plug the holes. You can see the result in my gallery as well as what it looked like before.
On that style truck I believe the molding for the early S10 Chebbies is very close to the same and would work just fine as you are not going for total restoration .. search Cowles 38-280 ProtektoTrim it's pretty close
Hi Waveone. I'm on a similar quest for my '93 W250. I found the body side moulding available from LMC Truck: https://www.lmctruck.com/1972-93-dod...y-side-molding
And I'm also trying to figure out how to remove the existing moulding, which is attached with industrial-grade double-sided tape. I plan to reach out to some body shops for guidance on both removing the existing moulding, and reattaching the new, after I've painted the truck.
Regards,
Pete
I have heard but can’t confirm that LMC’s molding was thinner but don’t know for sure.I used a thin sharp butcher knife to remove the molding but a thin wire works good also.Just remember the cab corner and the front of the fender has studs and nuts.I used the S10 molding and am very pleased with it.Hope that helps.
Some have recommended heavy test fishing line to slide in between the molding and 3M tape to remove the moulding. A rubber adhesive removal tool works good to remove the 3M tape residue. Just be careful not to get in a hurry or you’ll mar the clearcoat finish