With the pump head off, I'm not sure if the parts inside can go back together wrong. Can they? as in such a way that would make the pump out of time? The spindle that rests on the cam plate is indexed to cam plate with a pin but the cam plate can sit on the cross disc two ways 180* apart.

Does anyone know where to get the socket to remove the three sided cap screws?
Someone suggested a metalnerd part no mn3001 - I just got off the phone, he said nope not the same size - his is for a smaller screw on a VW diesel pump.

Also, just making sure - this green o-ring is the right one for the pump head to body seal. What is the larger ribbed ring for?

Attachment 47140

 

The tool is available on the internet. I have one somewhere. I'll send it if you can't find one of your own. It's a big nut that was machined partway to fit the triangle bolt. PM me.

Edwin

 

I ground a socket with a Dremel tool to fit those three sided screws.

Only took a couple minuets and cost a socket.

 

There is a thread I wrote up a few years ago about taking that 3 sided nut off...it's in The Sticky. Just a 13mm 12pt socket and a piece of cotter pin bent to a 90*.....should spin out.

 

I made a socket from a cheap 12mm socket and cut with dremel tool. It turned out very well.

Anyone know about the 0-rings I posted a pic of? Also, are torque specs for all these fasteners in the sticky?

 

The pic you tried to post up doesn't show up, or go anywhere.....at least for me.

 

Does anyone know if the 20mm input shaft seal needs any special treatment like the crank seal. I.e. Does it need to be perfectly dry or lubricated with diesel or 15-40 or something?

 

I've got just the pump and timing cover back on. Timing marks are good. I assembled the pump with diesel fuel mixed with PS additive for lube. Lines are gushing fuel at injectors with flare nuts cracked open while cranking so definitely pumping some fuel.

I dont have the radiator on or any accessories belted in. One thing that had me wondering is if crank sensor needs to be hooked up? I left off as much as I could trying to make sure she runs before full reassembly.

Things I've checked are:
shut off solenoid is disengaging when key on
lines are all bled - plenty of fuel coming out at injector end of lines.
fuel filter head bleed screw spitting fuel with no bubbles.

Will only run on gentle spray of starting fluid (I know not great idea but I've got it down where it doesn't ping and sounds like running on diesel).

Otherwise does it sound like pump was assembled 180* off? Could it move that much fuel but possibly not pop the injectors if the pump body has too much air in it?

 

Egads, keep that death spray away from her!

Try running it on WD40 for a bit sprayed directly down the intake. I have kept them running for as long as 5 minutes that way.

Crank sensor does not need to be on to run, just to get the tach,OD,AC and Cruise to work.

Anyway, she should not take very long running off of WD40 to purge any air........ If it takes more than about 10 seconds, then find the problem.

You will control the RPMs with the amount of WD you spray in........

 

Double check throttle index.

 

I was meticulous when I reassembled the pump but just to be sure, I took timing cover off and aligned timing marks 180* off see if it would fire right off since I had lines bled and all. It wouldn't even try to start that way whereas earlier today it seemed to fire off every now and then. Plus it doesn't keep the oil inside quite as well that way .

I took a picture of throttle index before disassembly and matched it back up.

 

From what little I know about the VE, I am not sure a picture is sufficient. Did you scribe a line to make sure you hit the exact spline?

Someone else can chime in here, but the one thing that I have seen bite people with the VE is getting that indexed correctly.

 

I took a pic and mental note of which mark it was on, but not exact spline. I have a wire hooked up to throttle lever So I can modulate that while cranking. Like you, I'm not exactly sure, but it seems even if the throttle is mis-indexed I'd have found a spot by now where it would run even if only momentarily?

 

I would have thought so as well, but I am not even close to competent on the VE stuff yet.

I would consider creating a new thread titled something like "Help, resealed the VE and now won't start".

Might help get fresh eyes on the specific issue.

 

I put the sleeve on the pump head piston backwards. Truck runs on its own fuel now. I'll post pics of the specific mistake I made soon.

now I have a fuse link issue to contend with. Set me back a bit until I figured out the power screw tabbed washer shorted on the fuel cut off solenoid and toasted an already rotting fuse link at the duck foot splicing by hood hinge.