Just purchased a 1993 Dodge Diesel dually 3500 auto 2wd. There are two problems so far, I need some help.
1. the auxiliary transmission cooler leaks and the fan is not turning. Both have been removed, and the dealer says they no longer stock them. The cooler is 11" by 11", 1 1/2 " thick and standard bolt patter except it has a sensor with 2 wirees that plugs into the vehicle. Can it be repaired (small leak) or can they be purchased WITH the sensor hole? What about a new fan. This item fits at the back near the frame. It there a good manual for this rig that will show the position as I didn't take it off.
2. There is a rear engine seal leak. Seller says it came from sitting for a year and is worse when idling parked.
This is an auto tran, How easy is it to get at, (remove trans?)
3. And what about that plug that can pop out behind the timeing gears. The vehicle has 250,000 miles. Is this likely to be a problem?
4. What kind of ATF to use? I am getting conflicting advice.

I really appreciate the experience of others when I am new to a vehicle.

 

First of all welcome to the 1st Gen forum good to have you aboard.

1. If you are refering to the aux trans cooler mounted under the drivers side bed you should be able to get it repaired at any radiator shop. You will need to pull it out for them then just reinstall when finished.

2. Rear seal leak - the trans will have to come out to remove/replace this seal. That would be a good time to upgrade the torque converter. Others running auto trans will jump in with their recomendations.

3. The "plug" you refer to is a dowel pin that can work its way out and cause potential damage. There are also internal case bolts that should be addressed as they are often loose. They can do the same damage as the infamous KDP aka Killer Dowel Pin. Yes it should be addressed.

You can find details on all your questions in the "stickies" as well as detailed directions with pictures for these repairs.

BTW tell us about your truck - fill out your sig. and let us know where you are located. You may find other 1st Genners in your area willing to help.

Bob

 

If you're going to do the rear main seal yourself, just be patient with the darn thing, and bone-dry-clean. A mechanic told me he found a thin feeler gauge to work well to feel if the seal got pinched once installed. And yes, just the transmission need to be out of the way: the engine adapter plate stays on.

 

I want to see some pictures of this truck...

 

Wow instant help. Ok the trans comes out as I thought, and I should upgrade the Torque converter. I see a tech article on adjusting the bands, so I will do that too.
I will check with the rad guy, I have cleaned the old oil cooler and found the leak, what do they do solder?
The fan needs to be replaced too.
The trans shifts OK , I guess the cooler must have helped its life. Not sure how long it has been removed and bypassed.

And what is the best manual? I have liked the Chrysler factory ones in the past.

 

Welcome from another BC'er, where abouts are you located?

Looks like a decent truck you have there. I'm new to Cummins powered trucks, and this site is a great resource with tons of information and great people.

 

Get the 1993 Factory service manual. A must have for all 1st gen owners..

 

No huge worries that the trans cooler with fan under the bed was bypassed. It was a factory option. You can get an aftermarket one even bigger if you like for $150 with temp sensor for on/off, fan, relay, some hoses, and the cooler itself. Mount it anywhere you want up under there it seems, just try and keep it out of harms way (rocks off wheels, etc). Derale is a company that comes to me off the top of my head.

Factory Service Manual all the way! Best $50 I ever spent, DON'T waste your time with Chilton! I got it on a CD in PDF form.... it's nice to have an actual book, but I can always print things out and write notes on them with the CD version. Plus, I have a copy on my computer now, and I can lend the CD to friends if they need to borrow a copy.

Trans fluid: your dipstick will say ATF Plus or Dexron II. Almost impossible to find Dexron II or ATF Plus anymore since there have been advancements in ATF fluids. Read the back of most ATF bottles and they will say that they replace all earlier grades of their respective types (ATF + is Mopar, Mercon is Ford, Dexron is Chevy it seems). I use normal Dexron III which seems to be the standard ATF in most stores. Some claim they feel differences with ATF +4, Dexron IV or V or VI... whatever. I honestly couldn't tell a difference from my normal 45mph drive to work and around job sites in town. I'm sure tow'ers and racers can though since they stress their trannys out more, and the differences in fluids may shine there. Like you already said, lots of conflicting info. Listen to what sounds best for you.

As for the KDP and the case bolts that should be loc-tited and torqued to spec: hard to tell when it can go!! I wouldn't stop driving the truck over the fear of it (ignorance can be bliss), but it would be a good thing to do some Sunday when you read the tech articles on how to do it and round up your parts needed. I would suggest tabbing it with a coat hanger like one member (BC847), or just peening a slight edge on the aluminum casing so the steel pin can't back out. Freebie. Great opportunity to put in a new front main seal, and a new timing cover gasket (with silicone!).

Good luck with the new girl. She looks great!

 

Get some Moog 7226S springs under the front to lift that thing back to factory height.

Get the cooler working and run the fan on a switch. Best factory upgrade ever needed.

Before you check the rear main, the front of the tranny between it and the torque converter. Might be the tranny leaking.

 

1 ton duallys use a different spring which is slightly larger than the 7226S used on the D250 and D350 SRWs. I am looking for the Moog p/n and will post as soon as I find it.

The MOOG P/N for D350 dually front springs is 5716S. This is the heavy duty spring.

Bob

 

This thing was dropping so much oil on neighbours properties, I just had to get it done. The local dealer replaced it for $600.00 and now not a drop leaks. I changed the oil (Shell 15-40 provided by the seller) and filter (Fram) and now will change the coolant (diesel version) and the trans fluid (518) and filter (Dexron III semi synthetic as I have some).
I had the front end inspected and they say my idler arm needs to be changed and the bearings are loose. The seller just changed the front bearings any advice on determining the tightness (torque wrench?). I have still not found a source for the FSM, not the local dealer or the 800 number he gave me nor Ebay so far for this model.
As explained in my earlier post, the auxiliary transmission oil cooler a 1.5" by 11" by 11" device WITH a temperature sender appears to no longer be available (mine leaks) and the fan that goes with it may also be a problem (it doesn't work these items were removed by seller) As I want to haul a camper on the steep mountain roads here, I need more than the small cooler in front of the rad. Is it possible to find room for a bigger cooler in that location and does anyone have a part number?
I will replace the front springs, a poster noticing my pictures said I need to and I can see his point. Another poster gave me the Moog number for the one ton, this site is amazing.
Any other ideals for things needing my immediate attention?

 

Don't panic but fram filters are not recomended for the cummins. I guess some of them have come apart and plugged some oil ports causing bad damage. Someplace, perhaps in the sticky, there is a list of "approved" filters. I know wix is one of them cause thats what I use. FWIW.