Brother got 92 W250 and it already has redhead steering box, Borgeson steering shaft and it still has steering slop going down the road. I wonder what else can be checked/upgraded to get steering shaft.

 

How many miles on that beast? Probably due for new kingpins and new tie Rod joints.
If he so chooses to do the king pins, get the kit from 4wheeldrivefactory.com. If he's got the gumption or really wants to just "do this once", have him replace the inner axle U-joints, all new bearings, seals, etc, as he's already going to be right there when he accesses the king pins. 4wheeldrivefactory also carries a kit to rebuild that entire front end, minus the pumpkin innards. All quality parts.

Lastly, check that steering gear unit's mounting plate. That plate is subject to cracking, and can cause all kinds of steering slop. That redhead is mounted to that plate, and the plate is mounted to the frame.
Be aware, though, that that plate is no longer available new, anywhere. Your best bet is to contact Oliver Foster or Deerecountry here on DTR, as I'm sure they carry a few of those plates.

 

Most if not all suspension components have been replaced/rebuilt. When you're talking about king pins you mean ball joints? Those look good, all components have been replaced recently with zerk fittings on everything and greased up, also track bar is new, I believe its Moog adjustable brand.

 

He means king pins when he says king pins. 1st gens don't have ball joints.
Track bar, on a 1st gen? Never seen one and I have owned a hundred of them over the last 20 years.
You sound like you are taking about a '94 and up Dodge.

Whenever I have loose steering issues I follow this method to figure it out.
I have my daughter or friend sit in the rig and turn the steering wheel, left and right as I follow the parts from the steering shaft one by one till I get to the wheels.
Wherever is sloppy and loose is then fixed.

Have you really checked out that steering gear plate closely, like Augie already suggested? That can be a common spot for issues, and if it broke completely while driving VERY unsafe.

 

There's play in the steering, when I turn steering wheel, steering shaft turns with it but there's no movement in pitman arm. I think steering box is the reason for sloppy steering. I went ahead and tightened allen screw 1/8 turn and that took out some of the play in the steering, however its still sloppy.

 

The steering gear may need to be rebuilt. Look at the sector shaft that the pitman arm is attached to and see if there is side to side play NOT rotational play. It may be out of round and the housing itself is bad. Sounds like the box needs to be rebuilt or was defective from Redhead. Even Redhead boxes will wear out over time.

 

You have increased the risk of internal damage to that steering gear by doing this. There is some here (and I am one of them) who think that the sector shaft adjusting procedure cannot be properly attained when the steering gear is in the vehicle. By excessively over-tightening that preload / initial backlash adjustment, you can put excessive tension on the internals, causing misalignment inside, prematurely wearing out the gear in a very short period of time. It's best to send the gear to Redheads and ensure it's set properly....

Bench adjustment is always recommended.

Courtesy of: Parts Mike Parts
(530) 885-0673
750 Perry Ranch Rd
Auburn, CA 95603

Saginaw Steering Box Adjustment

The nut and screw adjust Worm bearing Preload and Sector shaft mesh. NOTE! The steering gear must be out of the vehicle to adjust it on all 1974 and later Saginaw rotary gear units. The earlier models can be adjusted (sector shaft preload) on vehicle. Here is the manner that GM Saginaw Division recommends how to adjust. Disconnect the pitman arm from the sector shaft, completely back off the sector shaft adjusting screw on the sector shaft cover. Center steering on the "high point" then attach an inch lb torque wrench to the steering wheel shaft, the torque required to keep the shaft moving for one complete turn should be 1/2 - 2 in lbs. If the torque is not within these limits, loosen the thrust bearing locknut or tighten valve sleeve adjuster plug to bring the preload within limits. Tighten the thrust bearing locknut and recheck preload. Slowly rotate the steering shaft several times, then center the steering on high point. Now, turn the sector shaft adjusting screw until a steering shaft torque of 3 - 6 in lbs more is required to move the worm through the center point. Tighten the sector shaft locknut to 35 ft lbs and recheck the sector mesh adjustment. Total steering gear preload should be 14 in lbs or less. Install the pitman arm and replace back in vehicle. To try and adjust the sector shaft screw without doing the preceding will DAMAGE the steering gear. Most of the play is not in the sector shaft adjustment, it is the spool valve area

Saginaw Steering Box Rebuild - Four Wheeler Magazine

 

I also do not recommend adjusting the Allen head on the top of the steering sector a random amount while on the truck.
I would follow the instruction I outlined earlier and find out here the play is coming from. Then fix it after proper diagnoses rather than "thinking" the play might be in the box.

 

It doesn't look like truck has steering gear plate. Steering box is bolted directly to the frame with 3 bolts.

 

Is the truck a W-250? A W-250 would mean it is a 4x4 3/4 ton truck.
Or is it really a D-250 which would mean it is a 2wd truck and therefore would not have the steering box plate, as those are only found on the 4x4 trucks.

All the info. I have been giving you has been based on you telling me you are working with a W-250 4x4 truck.

 

Silly question, I may ask you.

Is this truck 4 x 4 or 2wd ?

You said ball joints, and no plate/ gear attached directly to frame, which, to me, indicates a 2 wheel drive pickup. 4x4 trucks have a plate which attaches to the back of the gear, which then attaches to the frame. 2 wheel drive trucks bolt right to the frame.

Chrysler's ingenious idea about saving money having just ONE kind of steering gear for their pickup truck line, vs one for 2wd, one for 4x4

 

It is W250 4x4 with NO plate on the steering box. Previous owner probably removed it, as he screwed up bunch of other things on the truck.
I did check again and there are king pins, no ball joints.

 

No Plate hmmm, is the steering crossover? the drag link goes from the steering box to the right steering knuckle? Can you post some pictures?

 

The reason the plate is,so critical, is it corrects the,steering geometry of the drag link. This could be,the reason for the squirrely feel when driving.

Pics please...

 

Please don't tell me that previous owner rigged it by not using the proper plate, and instead chose to use washers stacked on top of each other, to act as a stand off, between the steering gear unit and the frame