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1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715. Newbie with some engine tech questions

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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 01:01 PM
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1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715. Newbie with some engine tech questions

Hello all I am a jeep builder here in NJ but this is my first cummins. Picked this up from a guy in MI who did the motor swap and working out some bugs. My questions are on the 1990 6BT that is in it so hope this is the right place. A few detailed pics on the way but let me try this out with tapatalk / I phone first:

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379527207.935244.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379527273.317472.jpg
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 01:05 PM
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Awesome truck! Sure ask away about the engine, we will help!
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 01:16 PM
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Details

Ok the pics seem to be working so here we go...

This is what I know - in addition to the above -->

1990 w/ 109K miles donated the 6BT...a 94-96 donated the NV-4500 trans, and what I think is a 92-93 donated a larger turbo w/ wastegate and the Intercooler setup. The wastegate from what I have researched (and have done ALOT of cruising on this forum to learn about this thing before posting) was relocated because in the stock config it would hit the fender well I am assuming. It has had its star wheel and fuel screws and the one on the top with the T-25 all messed with I can tell. Power is awesome and it smokes when I think it should (more on that later)

Ill post some details in pics now then get back to ya with some questions. Thanks in advance all.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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Very Cool Jeep!!

I can see from the pics that it appears to be a non-IC motor, with a 91.5-93 intake intercooler piping. Turbo looks like it might be from a 2nd Gen ram? Hard to tell from the pics.

Hope we can help you out with your issues.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 02:48 PM
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Here are a few more pics:

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533528.966580.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533578.610418.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533621.539942.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533648.823264.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533697.105112.jpg
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 02:51 PM
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1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533793.211458.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533823.867480.jpg

1990 6BT with IC in a 1968 M715.  Newbie with some engine tech questions-imageuploadedbytapatalk1379533869.426172.jpg
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 03:14 PM
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I have driven this Jeep for about 500 miles since I bought it, its a great 70-75 mph highway cruiser, or to cruise around town. the axles are 4.10s and with the 40" tires it tops out at a normal RPM comparable to a stock height truck. There is still plenty of punch to go over 75 in 5th gear but its not screaming. I have no tach, but I can you it doesnt "top out"

Since I have had it I added a boost gauge, and did the linkage mod to move it to the inner hole. This made a HUGE difference as I definately wasnt getting full throttle travel. this was most noticable in the passing people on the highway punch, and also in my boost, before I could punch it at like 60 and boost would top at like 17, now it will get to over 25-30 psi almost immediately and I have yet to really punch it cause i think it would go past that into the 30s and I fear my wastegate may not be functioning properly.

I have no idea where my fuel or power or starwheel settings currently are, but I can tell they have all been messed with. Only thing I have done is bring the T-25 screw back out 1 full turn because it looks to me to have been in all the way in reference to the lock nut. I did this because I thought it would help with what I call high revs that take a while to come back down to normal idle when I let off the pedal. The springs, linkage and return spring all seem fine so I dont think its that but it will just take way too long I think to idle down when coming off a load, and even in just normal 3rd-4th-5th shifting under easy acceleration. Any comments on this..? I dont have a stock 1st gen to compare to, but it seems like the rpms stay high way to long. If I just sit there not under power and blip the throttle they come down nice.

In the one picture with the oil line for the turbo side of the line, to the left of that line, I have an open threaded hole. Some research shows another one with this hole unplugged....what is that hole for and should I plug it?

In the picture of the side of the pump, what is the connector for on the thing on the bottom? I have no wire connected to it..to the right, I have the wire that shuts fuel on/off I think thats what that is.

I dont have any hooked up pre heater or anything, to my knowledge, but do have a working block heater which i plugged into 110v for the 38F degree start this AM. it worked great. the previous morning at 40 degrees it stumbled during startup. Ill see some mornings of 5-10 degrees here in the winter.

My wastegate is rigged I think. its been mounted in a diff spot and when i got it, it was dangling, no lock nuts, and wasnt attached. I added the lock nuts and welded the rod to allow for lock nuts on both sides...but then in my research I can see barely (no real good pics existed of a stock wastegate because of location in my searches) that a spring exists on the top side...I also seem to have a homemade wastegate stop that limits how far it can release? I am thinking I should have a wastegate on this, I have plenty of power and dont mind letting some go to prevent any overboost problems. I nearly daily drive this truck (and even in winter once I install heat ill drive it some too) and just want relaibility and longevitiy, but also within reason power mods to push these tires. Right now it does drive like a very powerful truck. I can keep up with traffic like in any truck I have driven and am totally hooked on my first cummins. I hauled two cords of wood with it the other day too and no issures there.

Thats a novel for now, so ill shut up for a bit and thanks above for the compliments.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 6BTM715
I have driven this Jeep for about 500 miles since I bought it, its a great 70-75 mph highway cruiser, or to cruise around town. the axles are 4.10s and with the 40" tires it tops out at a normal RPM comparable to a stock height truck. There is still plenty of punch to go over 75 in 5th gear but its not screaming. I have no tach, but I can you it doesnt "top out"

Since I have had it I added a boost gauge, and did the linkage mod to move it to the inner hole. This made a HUGE difference as I definately wasnt getting full throttle travel. this was most noticable in the passing people on the highway punch, and also in my boost, before I could punch it at like 60 and boost would top at like 17, now it will get to over 25-30 psi almost immediately and I have yet to really punch it cause i think it would go past that into the 30s and I fear my wastegate may not be functioning properly.

I have no idea where my fuel or power or starwheel settings currently are, but I can tell they have all been messed with. Only thing I have done is bring the T-25 screw back out 1 full turn because it looks to me to have been in all the way in reference to the lock nut. I did this because I thought it would help with what I call high revs that take a while to come back down to normal idle when I let off the pedal. The springs, linkage and return spring all seem fine so I dont think its that but it will just take way too long I think to idle down when coming off a load, and even in just normal 3rd-4th-5th shifting under easy acceleration. Any comments on this..? I dont have a stock 1st gen to compare to, but it seems like the rpms stay high way to long. If I just sit there not under power and blip the throttle they come down nice. almost sounds like its hanging up, on the edge of runaway. You could try backing out your full throttle screw and see if that helps.

In the one picture with the oil line for the turbo side of the line, to the left of that line, I have an open threaded hole. Some research shows another one with this hole unplugged....what is that hole for and should I plug it?I think that's for the wastegate mount, yours looks custom.

In the picture of the side of the pump, what is the connector for on the thing on the bottom? I have no wire connected to it..to the right, I have the wire that shuts fuel on/off I think thats what that is. thats the ksb, it advances timing when it's colder out for easier starts. If you want you can hook a switch up to it to gain more power and use when it's cold out. The other part that has the wire going to it is the FSS, it turns the fuel flow on and off .

I dont have any hooked up pre heater or anything, to my knowledge, but do have a working block heater which i plugged into 110v for the 38F degree start this AM. it worked great. the previous morning at 40 degrees it stumbled during startup. Ill see some mornings of 5-10 degrees here in the winter.

My wastegate is rigged I think. its been mounted in a diff spot and when i got it, it was dangling, no lock nuts, and wasnt attached. I added the lock nuts and welded the rod to allow for lock nuts on both sides...but then in my research I can see barely (no real good pics existed of a stock wastegate because of location in my searches) that a spring exists on the top side...I also seem to have a homemade wastegate stop that limits how far it can release? I am thinking I should have a wastegate on this, I have plenty of power and dont mind letting some go to prevent any overboost problems. I nearly daily drive this truck (and even in winter once I install heat ill drive it some too) and just want relaibility and longevitiy, but also within reason power mods to push these tires. Right now it does drive like a very powerful truck. I can keep up with traffic like in any truck I have driven and am totally hooked on my first cummins. I hauled two cords of wood with it the other day too and no issures there. you should be able to mess with the wastegate and set it so you see a max of 25psi or so. Your egt's will likely rise though...

Thats a novel for now, so ill shut up for a bit and thanks above for the compliments.
....
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 07:25 PM
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That looks like a wastegate actuator controlled HE351VE on there, so that isn't a wastegate per se. Don't be scared to get into the 30's with boost. Being it is a variable turbo, response is going to be near instant, and you will have to push it and see where boost levels off, it isn't going to keep climbing at a steady rate, it will level off as the wastegate actuator opens the housing up.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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worthy upgrade from the tornado 6 cylinder, good to see close relatives with cummins repower, I love the m715 1962 ****** jeep j200
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 82F100SWB
That looks like a wastegate actuator controlled HE351VE on there, so that isn't a wastegate per se. Don't be scared to get into the 30's with boost. Being it is a variable turbo, response is going to be near instant, and you will have to push it and see where boost levels off, it isn't going to keep climbing at a steady rate, it will level off as the wastegate actuator opens the housing up.
I was going to say the same thing...but the hot side looks too big? Maybe they used the stock 18cm hot side with the HE351 cool side?
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 12:00 AM
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that port on the turbo is for water. you will find another port on the other side. these are the inlet and outlet ports for water cooling. you should plumb them and run water through it. it was designed for it. water and oil cooled turbos are superior to only oil cooled. see if the sheetmetal badge is still on the turbo, it will have the model number on it. it does appear to be a ve or vgt turbo. with variable venturing exhaust housing
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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Thanks guys...

I have a 63 J300 Dually Jeep truck so I know what you are talking about.

I turned my full throttle screw out 7/8 of a turn last night and it made a big difference on the throttle hanging up between shifts. It wouldnt idle at all after that (expected to be lower I read) so I brought the idle up for now.

During highway run this am, i now seem to be topping out at about 25-27 psi during most punches although with traffic I can say I really didnt do a full out drag run. I now see what you mean about the turbo not just climbing climbing, and also maybe the full throttle screw had something to do with it.

Ill check out that tag tonight and also thanks for the tip on the water cooling ill look for the other port too.

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Old Sep 19, 2013 | 12:07 PM
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I went from 21 PSI to 32 PSI just by turning my fuel screw in 1 3/4 turns on my stick shift '85 Crew cab.
My EGT was a little high after this, so I turning it back 1/4 of a turn, the temps dropped a bit, and my PSI tops out at 31 now.
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Old Sep 20, 2013 | 09:44 PM
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Cool M-715, I like it even if it isn't a Dodge. A question for whoever knows; is the wastegate the way to go to control the VGT? I haven't seen that set-up before, but then I haven't been looking for awhile.
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