16 Cm2
16 Cm2
I been thinking abot getting the 16 cm housing but do i need any gaskets or anything with it. does it come with new bolts to mount to the manifold or do i need to get some. also will it make the turbo louder or anything?
You'll need to stop by a Cummins Dealer or Turbocharger Shop and pick up the Oil Outlet Gasket, and the Turbine Flange Gasket.
To make things easier, pick up 4 new 8x1.25 Bolts, and a can of Anti-Seize Compound as well as some PB Blaster Penetrating Oil.
Be careful on the 15mm Nuts that hold the turbine housing to the manifold, soak them with the PB Blaster and try not the strip them or break the studs.
The 4 Bolts will replace the 4 that you removed from the turbine housing that hold the Bearing Housing in place. Be sure the soak them as well before removal, and to give them a light coat of the Anti-Seize before reinstallation (as you should with every nut/bolt).
Be sure the clean the old gasket & the surface of the oil drain flange, as well as the flange on the tube that runs back into the oil pan.
Should be a 1/2 hour job if you're good with a wrench and have no problems.
Good luck.
To make things easier, pick up 4 new 8x1.25 Bolts, and a can of Anti-Seize Compound as well as some PB Blaster Penetrating Oil.
Be careful on the 15mm Nuts that hold the turbine housing to the manifold, soak them with the PB Blaster and try not the strip them or break the studs.
The 4 Bolts will replace the 4 that you removed from the turbine housing that hold the Bearing Housing in place. Be sure the soak them as well before removal, and to give them a light coat of the Anti-Seize before reinstallation (as you should with every nut/bolt).
Be sure the clean the old gasket & the surface of the oil drain flange, as well as the flange on the tube that runs back into the oil pan.
Should be a 1/2 hour job if you're good with a wrench and have no problems.
Good luck.
In addition to what Jeremy said, when you're tapping the housing off the turbo you need to keep spinning the turbo to make sure the housing is coming off straight. You will be very lucky if it takes 1/2 an hour, I had to wail on mine for 20 minutes with a 2 lb. sledge before it started moving. When you put it back together, again, keep spinning the turbo to make sure you're putting the housing on straight. If you don't have gauges yet, it would be smart to drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the pyro while the turbo is off.
The turbo will be a little louder because it spins faster with the smaller housing.
The turbo will be a little louder because it spins faster with the smaller housing.
Re: 16cm2
Originally posted by jw216
I got mine from Piers, came with all the gaskets.
I got mine from Piers, came with all the gaskets.
last night i took the assembly off the truck. and wailed on the thing for 30min with a 3lb rubber mallet with no progress at all.
bout 930pm i gave up and went inside.
any other tips and tricks to try?
going to take it over to a buddie shouse tongiht who has a bit of everything to try.
thanks, jiMMy
I couldn't get mine apart either using the "persuasion" method.
But you can loosen the 4 bolts and use them as a "puller" against the other side to separate the housings.
Just do each one a little at a time. Mine came off easy that way and it wouldn't budge with a hammer.
Good luck.
Jay
But you can loosen the 4 bolts and use them as a "puller" against the other side to separate the housings.
Just do each one a little at a time. Mine came off easy that way and it wouldn't budge with a hammer.
Good luck.
Jay
A rubber mallet usually wont do the job...but a small sledge/dead blow hammer and some solid hits around the turbine housing (be sure it comes off evenly) are convincing enough to make it come off.
Hold the compressor housing in your hand, while hitting the turbine housing "away" from the assembly.
Some pop off with ease, and some can be downright FUSED together
Good luck.
Hold the compressor housing in your hand, while hitting the turbine housing "away" from the assembly.
Some pop off with ease, and some can be downright FUSED together
Good luck.
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its been coated with pb blaster for 3 days now and a fresh coat again teh morning. taking it to my buddies houes on my lunch here and let him wack at it.. ill try his dead blow on teh housing to get things moving maybe.
ill post an update tonight on teh out come. thanks. any other ideas welcom.
jiMMy
ill post an update tonight on teh out come. thanks. any other ideas welcom.
jiMMy
I was really worried about breaking the light alloy senter section of the turbo while trying to get the exhaust housing off.
If you put the turbo down on a hard surface (like a concrete floor) and strike the exhaust housing around its circumference into that hard surface, it will actually start to walk off of the center section. Just keep spinning/ looking at the turbine to keep it from touching the housing.
I used a 12lb sledge and a contcrete floor -- with a bigger hammer you don't have to swing as hard.
I think a solid hammer would do better than a dead-blow, but I could be wrong.
Good luck, it will come off.
If you put the turbo down on a hard surface (like a concrete floor) and strike the exhaust housing around its circumference into that hard surface, it will actually start to walk off of the center section. Just keep spinning/ looking at the turbine to keep it from touching the housing.
I used a 12lb sledge and a contcrete floor -- with a bigger hammer you don't have to swing as hard.
I think a solid hammer would do better than a dead-blow, but I could be wrong.
Good luck, it will come off.
A little help with getting the housing off comes from wax. The last time you run the truck before the housing change, take a candle or other source of wax and rub it around the turbine housing (HOT FROM RUNNING) bolts and where the housing fits up against the bearing support. The wax melts and sucks into any tight areas giving it the "slip". It really works great, odd as it may sound.
-Jim-
-Jim-
used wax plenty of times for other apps.
already had teh turbo off
my buddy has the torch so im sure he will try that, if not for sure i will when i get to his house after work. thanks!
already had teh turbo off
my buddy has the torch so im sure he will try that, if not for sure i will when i get to his house after work. thanks!
A rubber mallet is useless - as you found out.
I used a 2 lb. mini-sledge and wailed on it until it started moving, then switched down to a 1 lb. ball pein for the rest. I must've beat on it for 20 minutes before it started to move, then another 20 minutes of tapping and spinning to get it all the way off. It's not easy but it's worth it.
I used a 2 lb. mini-sledge and wailed on it until it started moving, then switched down to a 1 lb. ball pein for the rest. I must've beat on it for 20 minutes before it started to move, then another 20 minutes of tapping and spinning to get it all the way off. It's not easy but it's worth it.
by wail on it , i am assuming you all mean everything you got and hit the old housing???
if it defeats my sledge im going to be ****** and be out for revenge on the 'f er
who knows i may just buy that pdr hx 35 afterall, lol
jiMMy
if it defeats my sledge im going to be ****** and be out for revenge on the 'f er
who knows i may just buy that pdr hx 35 afterall, lol
jiMMy
Yes, I laid it on its side on the workbench and whacked the exhaust housing in the direction I wanted it to go. I wouldn't say I hit it as hard as I could. I hit it as hard as I could and still be sure I wouldn't miss and hit anything important.
Smartly yet carefully, I guess you could say.
Watch carefully, as soon as you see any movement you need to check for free spinning and switch to a smaller hammer and more gentle tapping. Take it off cockeyed and you'll need a new turbo.
Smartly yet carefully, I guess you could say.Watch carefully, as soon as you see any movement you need to check for free spinning and switch to a smaller hammer and more gentle tapping. Take it off cockeyed and you'll need a new turbo.
Try putting the HOT side in a VICE and then using the Rubber Mallet on the Compressor side, striking it in a "CLOCK WISE" fashion..as though you were "SCREWING" it...Once it turns a little you have broken the "rust seal" thats holding it and it will come off pretty easy.. It worked for me




