I know that several months ago we had a discussion on this board about the roller paint job that they were posting about over at moparts.org. One of their members has set up a web site that is very good. It is at http://rollyourcar.com/default.aspx If you go there, take a look in the gallery at the Chevy Luv. I think I am going to do my tailgate just to see how it works. Between that web site and the info and pics at http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...t=1&vc=1&nt=25 it looks like a winner. All you need is a garage or carport in good weather. Part of the discussion centered around the fact that you could drive your truck in between painting and sanding because the paint cures overnight, so you could roll it one night and drive to work the next day then sand and reroll.

 

20 years ago my Dad did a decent paint job on my 72' Olds Delta 88. Approx. $100 worth of sand paper, tape and misc. paint stuff. $18/gal. Van Sickle Implement Enamel, White. And it looked darn good too. I wouldn't roll paint on anything but a building though...

 

I dont know man,that looks pretty cool.Im gonna do some studying on this and maybe.................

 

I can see how it works...its a lot of color sanding on dozens of coats. I bet you can get that good of quality...just with more labor!

 

I tried it out on a smooth flat metal box, it looked great. With about a dozen coats and lots of sanding with a fine grit, it was really shinning. The only problem with our trucks is the body curves, drip rail, and other details that make it the unique truck that it is. It is so hard to get a roller into those spots without a run and making it smooth.

If your doing one piece to a time and have the time and desire to prove to everyone that it is possable to roll paint, then you will have a nice looking paint job.

Good luck, use thin coats and lots of sanding.

 

I haven't read the entire post on moparts.org (thats only part 2, part 1 is in the archives). I think it would take a weekend to read all of it. I did see where some of the guys over there used sponge brushes and cotton swabs to get the places where the roller would not work. I have never color sanded so just how hard is it since you only have two thin layers of color that you don't want to cut thru.

 

looks good to me i might try it on a lawn tractor first

sounds like a good idea to me

 

for the price diffrence, maybe 100 bucks more at the most, you can buy a paint gun, the paint and all the materials to do 1 stage tractor paint and it requires less work, hotrod magazine did this a few months ago to a 60's ford falcon and it looked decent, just easier to do what i said above, im painting my ranger this way and im going 5 color and full custom.

 

seems pretty cool and plus if ya scratch it i should be a quick fix "i do need to paint my hood and roof"

 

ive painted 2 fords in a buddys shop what a pain but looked great, problem was i didn't wanna get em dirty 2 weeks of work and 1,400 dollars each in parts and supplies. i did all the work myself w/ some guidance of coarse base coat, clear coat. ill try a 1 stage paint for the dodge can't remember the price on acrilic enamel? heres the 2 fords ive painted"

 

Those Fords look great. I agree that it would be easier to spray the paint. I have a couple of guns and masking station. All the stuff I bought before when I wanted a good job at a reasonable price. I think I always had at least $600 tied up in any paint job (base coat clear coat). That was when I had a paint booth available for rent (before EPA decided it was a no no). My paint there always looked great and held up. I've tried spraying at home with out good luck between dust and bugs. I even wanted to build a plastic paint booth in the back yard, but the thought of explosive paint vapors and Walmart box fans worried me to much. Painting with rollers may not be the quickest or easiest way but it has been shown to work and like CTD03 said I may have to drive around next trash day and find an old mower that someone discarded to try it on. I did try Earl Schieb before. I had them painting cars that I was fixing for resale and the paint looked OK after I did all the prep work. Then I had them paint my F150 with their premium paint job. Looked good for a couple of months then faded and wouldn't take wax. I feel terrible for all the people I sold cars to. Shiebs warranty was garbage too and every time I went there they had new management.

 

Hi, I just joined this site. I'm active on some other Mopar sites, including Moparts.com. I recently did the roller paint job on my '91 D-250. Here is a before and after picture. Cost about $90.

 

...NICE!!! Is that safety orange? (if so....YOU stole MY idea...GRRRRR) Again, looks awesome!

 

The application of the paint does not really matter its the paint. I own a sign shop a spray most of my signs, However every now and then when the spray booth is full I roll a few with my paint system and the finish is flawless.

I spray and roll Endura paints. reasonably priced and I have never worked with a paint that was so scratch and fade resistant. The paint is a single stage system but clears are available.

I have painted a dozen or so cars with the endura paint (sprayed) but now I want to roll one.

 

No, the color quality isn't that good in that picture. It's Rustoeum Regal Red, I didn't paint it below the belt line, and this color is a pretty close match.