My truck has continuous probs with the rear end poping and jerking when I turn right and slowly take off. It will smooth up if I change the fluid and add friction mod but it starts back up after a couple hundred miles. I've heard of guys welding their rear end so that it's locked but can you do that on a limited slip? Or is their an easier fix for my problem?

 

i assume you've taken a look at those spider gears and looked to see if they're not chewed up...don't know if those clutches being worn out would cause popping and jerking or not...but...

if you do decide to weld em up...weld the spider gears to the case or you'll shear that cross pin...

I've done it many times in the rock crawlers we build. It kind of gets annoying though...on asphalt be prepared for those tires to be squelling in every turn...and be prepared to have to drive it if you ever break traction in snow or rain...oh and it'll eat your tires in no time...

...do it!

 

Well I like the limited slip, but out of all the trucks I've had they have been nothing but trouble. And yes I checked the spider gears and they are fine. Could a bad wheel bearing make it pop to? When I drive next to a wall or high bank, I can hear a crackle sound like a bad bearing. Also can I change the clutches or should I just buy a Detroit?

 

Have you check the U-Joints? maybe it's time to put in new U-Joints. Just a thought.

 

i've welded the spider gears up for rock crawlers too. like they said, weld the spider gears to the side gears and the side gears to the carrier. this is going to wear out your tires much faster. taking wider turns will help.

 

I believe that the factory limited slip is rebuildable, and I would get a Detroit before welding the spider gears on a street driven truck. Especially one I drove regularly.

 

Did you try adding one more bottle of friction modifier?
It may only need 1/2 a bottle at a time.

 

X2 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Lincoln locker!

 

Yes I've tried adding more friction mod. I've even changed the fluid to a heavier fluid after the initial change. It's only when I turn right from a stop.

What's "X2" Gunracer?

 

So I called the local Dodge place today and they said for the whole new clutch kit for a Dana 70 it's $175.00. Is that worth it or should I just get a locker? When I change the clutch will I have to re- shim and reset the back lash?

 

Simple way to say he agrees...

I would rather have a limited slip than a locker on a mostly sterr driven truck, so I would rebuild the LS. Not sure if you will have to re shim, and set the backlash...

 

why would you need to reshim and check backlash? Im not completely familiar with floating rears, but on a typical car you wouldnt need to do any of that. your pulling the axles, removing the diff and putting on new clutches. you're not removing the ring gear from the diff or really even touching the pinion gear.

had an old corvette do that, some old timer told me add another bottle of friction modifier and go to a parking lot and do figure 8's for a few minutes. said some clutches could be dry or there is some grit stuck in them..........by golly it worked the me. maybe give it a shot before you tear it all apart

 

I did'nt think I would have to check the back lash, just curious. I've taken several chunks out and swapped them and never had a problem. I've tried everything to help it. The p.o. hauled portable buildings with the truck almost every day so the clutch could be worn out. But I'll try another bottle of friction mod first. I used the friction mod from the parts house, maby I'll try the dodge stuff.

So what about the wheel bearing, if the outer bearing was bad would that cause it to bind and pop?