I can't move the actuator rod by hand and I tried pretty hard. Seems like there is an issue in this area. Can I tee into it to check my boost with hand-held gauge temporarily piped into passenger compartment?

I've gotten all the suggestions about pressurizing the system to look for leaks and plan to do that too. First I want to know what my boost is though.

Got lots of things done on my truck recently (ESS, alarm system spaghetti wiring elimination, fuel sending unit...) and I'd like to see wastegate system work properly before modifying anything.

I plan to use my handheld temp gun to determine egt and so far it runs at 600 degrees pre-turbo after coming to a stop from a steady several-mile run at 60-65 MPH empty. Each cylinder exhaust is right around 300.

Hopefully the exhaust shop can get me in today for my cat and muff "test pipe" install. I'll report back on egt when I know anything.

 

OK, I take back frozen. It may be frozen but the diaphragm is popped too.

I probably won't replace with stock until I learn about possible upgrades I want to do in the future involving turbo and whether they come with a replacement also.

Opinions welcome.

I'm heading out now to get hose to boost test the turbo and caps to pressure test for leaks...

 

The wastegate spring is extremely strong, you can't move the rod with just your hands.
Best way to test is to use compressed air to the actuator, 30 psi max.

Why not just hook your boost gauge to the correct place even if temporary?

 

Ah, because I did not know of this pressure port. That's excellent. Thanks for pointing that out.

I did find 2 leaks, 1 in the actuator which blew out pretty good and one going to the aftercooler which I just snugged up.

It seems to get about 15 lbs of boost or so. It's not the best gauge I have here, boost/vacuum.

I removed the silencer ring too, at least for now. I think I know why people get headaches, it sounds like a dentists drill. That's some painful mental restimulation there. Me, I like the sound at least for now. It growls and whistles.

 

If the diaphram is leaking you should be able to build more boost than 15 psi because your waste gate shouldn't be opening, there's some thing else wrong either your gauge, a leak, turbo problem, or fuel problem.

I have had my waste gate blocked off years and I can hit 30 psi of boost no problem with what few mod's I have.

 

Well, judging by the number of small issues I have corrected so far, I agree that something else is definitely wrong.

Just got back from the crooked exhaust shop. I left without getting the work done. $100 on the phone $150 in person for a **** piece of straight pipe.

It runs nice, not a lot of power, spools up kinda slow, not amazing mileage, very consistent 600 degrees outside of manifold just before turbo after 60 mph.

Should I be getting 4 PSI boost at 60 mph flat road? Goes up to 5 if I push a little more.

I'm just going to keep plugging away and I'll get there sooner or later. I can't wait to find the item that makes that "WOW" difference.

No mods until everything basic is confirmed good.

Where test lift pump PSI and what should it be?

 

Your boost sound about right, I'm about 4 psi at 60-65. These trucks are not all that pepy in stock form. With some minor (inexpensive) mod's they wake up pretty easily. Change your Fuel plate (I have a #8)and moving the AFC will make a big difference. You can grind your own plate and move the AFC for free but then you should get pryo gauge because you'll be dumping alot more fuel in depending on how you grind it.

Here's a good read for you:

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/wiki/Pump_Mod%27s

 

Excellent.

That will get read later tonight.

I learned a valuable lesson today. DON'T tell an exhaust shop that you need a test-pipe, they will not help you. Tell them it's a replacement section for a motor home. There are good honest exhaust shops around, for better or worse.

The issues/wants I need to address are losing prime, straight-pipe, gaugification and lastly we'll delve into fuel/turbo performance mods once the basics are in. If that's ok.

I would appreciate a few opinions as to whether it's worth doing anything to modify the stock exhaust even if in a temporary manner or should I save up for full exhaust? I wish I had my old bender... We had 3" dies too.

 

The stock exhaust is fine until you start getting crazier with the mod's.

What were you going to do with the test pipe.

 

Used to verify the operation of his catalytic converter.
You can actually buy the part, called a test pipe from Dodge, part number 52019170AB

Your boost sounds ok but if the wastegate actuator diaphragm is leaking it's also a boost leak. If you are teed into the line to wastegate the reading will be way off due to the close proximity to the leak.

How to measure fuel pressure https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...41&postcount=9

'94 & '95 are dogs stock but that can all be changed easily.
Instructions here Turning Up A P7100 Pump

 

Actually, when I put 40 psi into the actuator and it just blew out around the shaft, I threw the idea of teeing into it out and instead just hooked a hose directly to the turbo and routed it into the cab. That's what I am using for reference boost PSI.

I don't know that I will ever get crazy with mods, at least the type that shorten engine life such. I want a reasonably fast, very driveable truck that has a rich sound but doesn't make the neighbors hate me.

Honestly, I am far, far more familiar with stuff in a gas engine, lots of basics are the same (besides injection particulars).

Even in it's current rough state it turns heads with sound, Tampa Mack mudflaps and duallies. And it is getting the love it deserves from me now within the limits of my knowledge.

Yes, my Dodge dealer right here in town can get me that pipe for $53 but I weighed that against full pipe to replace both cat and muffler and the latter seemed preferable, at least at the time. There are loads and loads of loud trucks here and I don't think I'd get pulled over much if I was easy on the throttle around police. The muffler has a lot of rust on the seams too.

Guys, I might let this thread stagnate a day or two until I get all the reading done that you have provided me and my fuel prime issue is handled.

Thanks for the links and advice.

 

I got a beautiful 64" x 3" repair pipe made for my RV today. Guess what, it fits my Dodge too! Midas did a great job on it for $23.11 out the door.

Wow is it loud! I can make it pretty quiet if need be but I see that I will be taking the wife's minivan to the store for the midnight trips.

My fuel leak is at the lift pump but I don't want to do anything with it yet unless it's easily rebuildable as I may convert to veggie/used engine oil burning. Pretty sure I'd move/remove the pump, prefilter/heater and filter with any real conversion. Can the lift pump be rebuilt?

My feeling on the truck right now is that it's not getting the fuel that it could put to use.

That reading about fuel control was quite something. Some of it I think I will need to have the parts in front of me to fully understand.

SO, to get back on topic, does anyone have an idea of how to obtain a pretty cheap wastegate actuator?


I LOVE MY TRUCK

 

I blocked off the wastegate all the way and cranked the starwheel ahead a half dozen clicks(if you have a p7100 pump). It smokes a bit if you have a heavy foot but I can make 30psi boost easily where as before blocking the wastegate I could barely get above 15psi.

 

Yeah, but I just read a seemingly very scientific write-up where the fellow stated that there have been numerous dyno tests proving that blocking your wastegate does not improve power, boost yes, power no.

Interestingly, that contradicts experience in gas engines. A fellow with a Saab came in one day and we worked on his car and fixed his wastegate and he bitched like crazy that his car had no power. Actually, it had proper power but his inoperational wastegate gave him too much and the boss was a stickler for everything stock so away he went not very happy.

I'd like to get it operational at this point. If you don't want your actuator would you consider selling it to me for cheap?

 

The reason I blocked mine off was because it wouldn't move even with air pressure. I managed to unseize it but it only worked for a while then seized again.
The gain in power came from adjusting the starwheel which gives quicker boost.