Oh yeah, no doubt that fuel adjustments will give it some more thrust.

I want to get everything right before I delve into that. I got most of the parts for Infidel's fuel pressure gauge setup today. Not all was available at the store I went to. Monday.

Do you want to part with your actuator or is that the part that's frozen, not the linkage?

 

I hadn't thought about parting it out and besides that's a long way to ship. The freight may be more than a replacement part.

 

Ah, Canada.

Yes, it could be pricey I imagine but so far the prices I have seen for this part are surprisingly high. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

 

Here's the wastegate article I was looking for before.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm

Turning up the wastegate will increase the air volume that is stuffed into the cylinder. This *may* reduce the EGT, but will not increase power. How do you get more power? One way: more fuel = more power. To increase the power, the fuel rate must be increased. The boost should only be increased to match the fuel curve for smoke and EGT control. Several tests have been done where a truck was run on a dynamometer, the boost was increased by blocking the wastegate signal, and the truck was re-tested on the Dyno. In every case reported, no power increase was measured.

 

In my opinion you should: get your self a good set of gauges for boost,egt,and trans temp (2) get a fuel plate kit that includes a boost fooler instead of blocking off the waste gate because u can control how much boost you want much better with the turn of a set screw and adjust the starwheel. (3) exhaust system at least 4inch (4) since you mentioned maybe a new turbo you could do the exhaust with a hx-40 downpipe,and an exhaust manifold at the same time (saves the hassel)

 

Yup, gauges are next. I still have my temporary gauge piped in for boost. The temperatures are all fine according to my hand temp gun. I tried to buy all the parts for Infidel's fuel pressure gauge setup yesterday but the store didn't have it all. Monday.

Those other three are the exact gauges I am looking around for now. Decent manufacturer at reasonable price. Pyrometer seems most expensive one. I think I have space where my cupholders are for 3 gauges. There are actually 5 gauges I want so I'll get a pod too I guess.

I want GSK after that along with some basic adjustments including starwheel, smoke screw and plate/housing position. Depending on how that does I will look into further mods (which are a likelihood).

Actually the gutted AFC sounds right up my alley. I've been driving quirky vehicles since I could drive and having full manual control with my foot sounds cheap, powerful and interesting BUT most of these topics are for later threads.

 

why not just get a set of gauges for the main 3 that come with a pillar pod like isspro or autometer it might b cheaper.. and you have to remember that there is a lil elbow bolted on the back of the stock turbo that will make everything hot as soon as you add more fuel.

 

Well, right now this week the issue would be money, I have to go a step at a time and fuel pressure is a logical next step. I haven't found Autometer to be terribly inexpensive.

What is the elbow that you are mentioning that makes everything hot? Heat should be coming from the whole exhaust system, particularly pre-turbo, right?

After my fuel gauge I want to repair wastegate if I can find actuator and then address my fuel leak at the pump. Then other stuff. That sequence.

 

The only part that can be replaced is the 50¢ O-ring that seals the primer button.
Maybe that's where your leak is?
Cummins sells a new pump for $79.

For the wastegate find a Banks installer in your area. Fellow I know who installed Banks had a pallet of stock turbo housings with actuators that people didn't want. After I told him how the 1st gen guys were interested in smaller than stock housings he was able to sell all of them on the TDR classifieds for $25 each.

 

It was hard to spot exactly where the leak was on the pump but it was dripping from where it meets the block. I just didn't have enough flow to pinpoint it further. I suppose I could pressure test it after taking it off and find it with soapy water. I was given a price closer to $250 by Napa and Dodge wanted me to buy an entire in-tank electric conversion kit for price unknown. $79 sounds great in comparison.

There are just 2 bolts holding the pump on and I assume that I can find how to get to the o-ring once it's off.

Cool, a Banks installer. There must be one in Tampa.

 

Yes but before you remove it buy two 8mm x 30mm x 1.25 pitch studs and nuts from the autoparts to replace the bolts. Reinstalling the pump will be a hundred times easier.

I'm sure there are a bunch of Banks installers in FL, just go to their website.

 

DON"T let them talk you into a intank lift pump!!!
It is not for a 95. The pump you havve now is so much better than an electric one in tank.

 

ok if you look at your turbo from the passenger side ulll see theres a clamp at the back of it where it looks like the down pipe starts but its really the begining of the elbow im talking about.. this elbow makes egts skyrocket because its soo small and restrictive.. elminating the elbow and going to a hx-40 style down pipe means less heat

 

Ok, once again lots of excellent data. Studs instead of bolts, no in-tank pump, HX-40.

Roger. WilCo.

I'll start reading about that elbow.

 

ne_plus_ultra_1:

What Infidel said here could account for your low boot.


You can check it out by taking the control line that goes from your turbo's waste gate to the AFC and disconnect it from the AFC and plug the port at the AFC and see if you boost comes up.