Is it worth it for a very lightly modded truck? I dont do any pulling. I just want to add it for the "look what ive got" factor. IF its a complete waste of money, i wouldnt want to do it. I would hope for better mileage, or more power. Been looking at devils own, cooling mist, and snow. I like the snow package so far. What do you all think?

 

Unless you are running into EGT problems, I don't know if its worth alot.. It may give you a HP bump, maybe not as large as a bigger fuel source. I am also entertaining it, but my pyro turns into a spinner at any high throttle application.

 

Hi Jon,

Hope all is going well for you.

No, it's not worth it unless you need it to help control EGTs. In order to really make more power with it, you need to either already be running "big fuel" where the air charge cooling can be a benefit and the alcohol may add a tiny bit to the fuel and even the "cleanliness" of the burn; or add more methanol for the fuel value, in which case the cooling effect can be nullified.

Is your K&N a drop-in in the stock airbox? If so, you could get a little "bling" factor and a little better performance from a cold air intake. Take a look at this: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../18613/cat/all

Did you ever get a fuel plate? There are some nice ones on eBay cheap.

BTW, you might think about updating your sig...

Best regards,
Vince

 

Is there a problem with the Water meth and corossion in the engine? I flew airplanes with water meth, and it was far more destructive to the engines than originally thought when it was engineered. I don't know if piston stuff would be damaged like the turbine stuff was (it was turbine wheel damage in the engines, unless its going through the turbo I guess it wouldn't bother a piston engine).
Just a little curious. I don't know where the meth is injected into the system.

 

In our Cummins engines, the nozzle(s) are usually mounted in the tube from the intercooler to the air horn. The lowest boost acitvation would be set at ~12psi or more. Staged systems will have more than one "Hobbs" or other pressure switches to turn on additional nozzles. There are also fancy electronic controllers that measure boost and are adjustable for set pressures as well as the rate which they ramp up the output of the pump by using pulse-width modulation.

Since the W/M is only injected under boost, normal driving and a short period of idling before shut-down are thought to "dry out" the intake tract. Under those conditions, corrosion shouldn't occur. That said, I have heard of a few cases where someone did get some corrosion in an intake elbow. My guess is that they had a "leaky" system. For best results, each nozzle should have either a check valve or a solenoid valve.

 

Hey vince. I got your elbow that you sent me. Thanks a lot for doing that. I messed it up when i installed it though. I tightened the set screw way to tight and ruined the ball and spring mechanism. After i saw what it was, i bought a brass gate valve. I installed it on the vaccuum line that runs to the turbo. I later saw your setup that you sent me, installed on a different truck towards the back of the AFC. The set up i have now makes no difference if i closes or open the valve.
Thanks for the info on that water meth question. Maybe I should spend the money on bigger injectors or something. I would hate to spend that much money on something and then not even notice any difference.

No, it's not worth it unless you need it to help control EGTs. In order to really make more power with it, you need to either already be running "big fuel" where the air charge cooling can be a benefit and the alcohol may add a tiny bit to the fuel and even the "cleanliness" of the burn; or add more methanol for the fuel value, in which case the cooling effect can be nullified.

Is your K&N a drop-in in the stock airbox? If so, you could get a little "bling" factor and a little better performance from a cold air intake. Take a look at this: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../18613/cat/all

Did you ever get a fuel plate? There are some nice ones on eBay cheap.

BTW, you might think about updating your sig...

Best regards,
Vince[/QUOTE]

 

Hey there bud.

If you want, I'll send you another one. I looked in my bag of parts and have one ready to go.

There were two setups on the wastegate pressure lines. The one on my '96 was simple- just an elbow in the turbo outlet with a 1/4" hose directly to the wastegate. My "new" '94 has the hose exiting a tee on the back of the AFC and joining a metal line that goes across the engine, that in turn goes back to rubber before the wastegate. This second setup I have also seen on later models. It just requires the boost controller being mounted at the AFC instead of at the turbo.

BTW, earlier today I took a stock fuel plate and cut it to a #10 for the '94.

 

IMO, Yes, W/M is worth it in one of two ways pending your wants.

If you're looking strictly EGT control, running a 20% Methanol mix gives notable results, perhaps up to 100*F drop (don't quote me). With a minimum of 20%, there's less chance of quenching the flame as it were. Still, some run straight water with good results.


If you're into it for the potential power gains, running up to a maximum of a 50/50 % mix can result in up to 70 or so additional HP with a good 100ft/lbs additional torque. The 50/50 mix will add a little to the EGTs, but you can tailor your mix too. Some make more with squirting more in, but then you're pushing the headgasket's integrity pending your C/R, boost figure, timing, etc.


Corrosion? I dunno. Stock/OEM has regular old air flowing through the mess and into the head. The existing humidity is sufficient to support corrosion of unprotected iron. A W/M mix is only gonna contribute to keeping the interior surfaces oil free (which would certainly aid in corrosion protection, but then again, oil in there suggests you've got an oil leak too! ).

Here's a shot of my heap's intake log after five or so thousand miles of stiff W/M. Standard old brown oxide surface with no flaking or weird stuff. No different than an otherwise standard intake as far as I know.




Check out the different major suppliers of the kits for more in depth test results as your mileage may vary in performance.

In my case, a standard install of two of the larger Snow nozzles with the typical 220psig maxed pump (a conservative system) nets me that shown in my Sig.

 

Well, I think im not getting anything for a while. THe wife just got $4000 worth of concrete. That makes my decision about the truck very simple. Leave it alone for a while.