12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Vlave Covers-Studs

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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 05:47 PM
  #1  
squirlchasr919's Avatar
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From: virginia beach, va
Valve Covers-Studs Issues

Hey guys I just ran into an issue I thought I should make anyone aware of who already wasn't. After installing a set of ARP studs into my 96 I found I could not get the valve covers to seal! I tried using sealant, new gaskets, new gaskets and sealant to no avail.
Finally I decided to call Piers and see if I could get some help. I spoke to Mark, he made me aware that most 12v's have ribs in the top of the valve covers made during casting, for strength I guess. And that these ribs will not allow the covers to sit down right without them being off-center. This off-center will often cause an oil leak.

Fancy that, don't make my mistake and buy several sets of gaskets and sealant, just pull the covers and grind out the offensive rib.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 09:12 PM
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Thanks for the heads up.With the studs is there still room to pull the head with out pulling the motor?
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 05:14 AM
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Well, not really, you have to pull the studs back out to get the clearance to remove the head. It wouldn't take you but 5min to pull all the studs, unless you ran into some issues.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 02:44 PM
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Alright I have an update to my first post. In addition to having to relieve the valve covers themselves you have to actually cut the studs down some.
I trimmed the valve covers and reinstalled them only to find I still blew oil out from around them.
The studs only stick out about 3 threads above the nut, but obviously that is enough to keep the covers from sitting on the head evenly.
So any ideas on how to best trim the studs down? I'm nervous about taking a saw or grinder to a set of almost $400 studs. Anyone know the thread pitch of end of the studs that go into the block so I can buy a die after I cut them. I had planned on removing them one at a time, altering the, then reinstalling.
Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 08:22 PM
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Did you use a bottoming tap to clear threads on all holes and fully seat the studs?
I only had 2 covers that needed the web ground to clear the studs.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:31 PM
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There should be no need to trim the studs if you bottom tap the holes.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Rhino
There should be no need to trim the studs if you bottom tap the holes.
Not true.
Most blocks were short bored & tapped in a couple locations. Deep enough for bolts, but a touch shallow for studs.
I had 1 location that required trimming the stud. We measured the bore depth and it was short compared to the other holes.

-John
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 10:01 PM
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That's news to me. Thankfully I haven't come aross that yet.
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Old Oct 2, 2005 | 07:38 AM
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I never ran a tap down them. That's my mistake. What size tap do I need for the block?
I'll do that before I cut anything. Thanks alot for the help.
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