timming my motor?
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From: caro MI
timming my motor?
ok i think my timming is off on my injection pump.and the dot on my crank and cam gear do not line up. i CAN NOT for the life of me find instruction on the net on how the frig to time it. I don't wanna go spend 25 bucks on a friggen manuel i will use just this one time prolly. Does any no ware there is good instruction on doing this?? i am gunna put it back together tomorow with the timming on and see if i fixed my problem it has.
I am thinking, when the barrel in my pump broke, it broke cause water got in there and hydro locked it. and I have read the gear on the pump is just on a tapper it might have spun a tooth or 2 on there. I would be happier then a oposium eating a sh!ty baby diaper if this fixes my problem!!.. i am really hoping that this is my problem.
I am also gunna check the dowl pin thing out while i have the cover off.
I am thinking, when the barrel in my pump broke, it broke cause water got in there and hydro locked it. and I have read the gear on the pump is just on a tapper it might have spun a tooth or 2 on there. I would be happier then a oposium eating a sh!ty baby diaper if this fixes my problem!!.. i am really hoping that this is my problem.
I am also gunna check the dowl pin thing out while i have the cover off.
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Like I just posted in your other thread, there should be two marks on the cam gear, one on the crank gear. One mark goes between the other two.
As for timing, to go back to stock specs without using a dial, pull the 24mm plug out of gov housing. There is a plastic pin in there. Look through the hole with a mirror, and turn the engine over. There is a little arm that is pinned to the pump shaft that will come into view. You want this arm centered in the hole. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft, realign the pin in the hole, and insert the plastic end of the pin to engage the arm. Now take your gear puller, pop the gear off, clean the bore and shaft. Bar the engine until the pin under the IP engages the cam gear. That is TDC on the #1 compression stroke. With the gear bore/pump shaft clean and dry, set the gear on the shaft. I like to put a socket over the gear and give it a whack with a hammer. Unpin the engine and the pump, torque the nut and washer to 160-180 ft-lbs. 144 is spec, but I like to go a bit tighter on it. Main thing is to make sure the shaft and bore is clean and dry, and all the pins are out before your torque.
As for timing, to go back to stock specs without using a dial, pull the 24mm plug out of gov housing. There is a plastic pin in there. Look through the hole with a mirror, and turn the engine over. There is a little arm that is pinned to the pump shaft that will come into view. You want this arm centered in the hole. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft, realign the pin in the hole, and insert the plastic end of the pin to engage the arm. Now take your gear puller, pop the gear off, clean the bore and shaft. Bar the engine until the pin under the IP engages the cam gear. That is TDC on the #1 compression stroke. With the gear bore/pump shaft clean and dry, set the gear on the shaft. I like to put a socket over the gear and give it a whack with a hammer. Unpin the engine and the pump, torque the nut and washer to 160-180 ft-lbs. 144 is spec, but I like to go a bit tighter on it. Main thing is to make sure the shaft and bore is clean and dry, and all the pins are out before your torque.
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From: Montana
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