I was out there right now trying to adjust the valves. Can't get the $#$@ timing pin to go in. At this point I'm convinced that the previous owner broke the pin in the camshaft gear. Cause I can push the pin in way more than 0.05" and hear it click even when #1 is not at TDC.

Does anyone have the part number for a new timing pin?

 

Just use the pin on the side of the pump.
There is a hex head cap on the driver's side of the pump, remove it, underneath there is a pin that pulls out. You reverse the pin, reinsert and bar the engine over till it drops in.

Other methods that don't involve the timing pin at the bottom here>
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/valve_adj/12_valve.html

 

I never knew about this hex cap. Where is it exactly?

 

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...&postcount=304

Theres a pic of it. 24mm hex size. FWIW, on my pump, there is a little arm attached to the pump shaft that you would slip the timing pin onto. If its not in the right position, the timing pin will still go in all the way. Best way would be to get an inspection mirror and watch until the arm is dead center in the hole.

Another bit of advice, make sure you torque that cap up good. I didn't, and I lost it, as well as the timing pin and a fair bit of oil several hundred km from home. Luckily I have some good coworkers, family and DTR friends that helped me out. $100 and its back together.

 

The timing pin is a worthless piece of crap. Hard to get to and not always at TDC when it is engaged. If you are adjusting the valves it is easy to get close enough to TDC to do the job. If you are adjusting your timing there are at least two methods that are better than the pin to find TDC. Don't waste your money replacing it. Coat it with black silicone sealer, shove it in and forget it.

 

Turn your engine over until the #2 exhaust valve is open (all the way down) then adj the first set #1 IN & EX #2 IN #3 EX #4 IN #5 EX Turn the engine until #5 EX is open (all the way down) then adj #2 EX #3 IN #4 EX #5 IN #6 IN & EX and you are done.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I've been without internet a few days.

I've heard about doing it in ways similar to this but the only problem I see is, how do you know when the valve is completely open? I'd like to make a stand with a clamp (kind of like in the chemistry lab) on top of my valves with a dial indicator touching the valve retainer, that way I know exactly. But I was hoping to find an easier way.

 

You can get a dial/mag base for $40 up here, probably even cheaper in the states. Then you can find TDC with the valve method I described, mark your balancer and you're good to go. Then you just look at where your #1 valves are to know if you're on compression or exhaust stroke.