So, I think I'll pull my tranny and take a look at the clutch. It sounds like the slack in my driveline is coming from there. In any event, most of it is in the clutch/transmission/transfer case region.

How long should I plan to take to pull/install the set, and any tips for doing it? I'm comfortable with most things, pulling my rotors/hubs, u-joints, P/S pumps, etc., etc., but haven't done a tranny yet. AKA How long does it take you to pull a 5 spd?

Thanks in advance!

 

I had never pulled a tranny before or installed one, but I pulled my auto and installed the 5spd. To pull the 5spd and clutch it'll take a couple hours, probably around 3 if u don't run into any snags. Only tips I can offer are have a friend there to help manuever the trans, trying to do it alone is doable like I did, but u will yell alot, lol. remember to unbolt the pressure plate slowly in a criss cross pattern as to not distort it, same for bolting it back up.

 

Awesome, so
3 hrs removal
3 hrs assembly
= 6 hrs subtotal
*1.5 fudgefactor
= 9 hrs, plus a run to get the flywheel machined.

Sweet. Let's just hope the input and output of each box don't rotate independently.

What did you use to remove the shift rod extension/handle? Some random generic tool from the local parts supplier?

 

My trans has the pre-two piece shift cover so my shifter just twist's out.

you should be able to get the trans out and in on a saturday no problem, I just had to deal with a auto to manual swap thats why it took longer. It would have only taken me sat and sunday but I had problems getting the input shaft to go into the clutch disk and didnt have all the parts on hand to get driving monday (mainly driveshafts).

Make sure the machine shop isn't busy because the guy had my flywheel for 6 hours before he could get to it...

 

Last clutch took me alittle over 5 hours. But my first (cummins) took me a entire weekend. There are a few methods to removing the crossmember under the tranny, but I have found the quickest and easiest way for me is to us the good ole porta-power and spread the frame enough to drop the crossmember down. Make sure if you do a fluid change to use Castrol Syntec or the right subsitute in the tranny. Its been in my experience (2 time tranny failure by trying to use a cheaper fuild) that the tag on the transmission is def correct. Dont forget to hook up the vac line on the transfer case. Hopefully you have a friend to help with re-installation or atleast a good tranny jack. Hope something out of this helps. Good luck Jesse

 

The right fluid is Castrol Syntorq. Alot of guys use the Amsoil GL-4 fluid.

 

Amsoil has a newer oil just for these trans. It is 5w-30(mtf). If you can't it you can use the GL-4 with limited slip additive, if you are using stock style synchos. Additive is not needed if you use upgraded brass synchos.

 

u dont need a frame spreader to get the crossmemeber out, atleast on mine u just ubolt it and i used a rubber dead blow hammer and hit it up and then back and out, and it came out real easy.

 

I don't think there is enough room on a shortbox truck to do that.

 

yeah thats right I had a brain fart on the fluid, I knew what I was trying to say but I said it wrong. As far as the frame spreader I have only had sucess the way you talk about box 1 time and it still took me longer than with my porta power. I know to each thier own, just the way I have found easiest. I have used a bottle jack and block of wood and a hi-lift also when helping others with thier clutch swaps. Anyways the more info we can provide hopefully the easier the repair is for him.

 

yea its always good to have a couple options to try. I know when I did my trans swap there were some real frustrating times (getting the input shaft into the clutch disk to be exact, lol). If I would have had one of my friends there even to joke with it would have been easier, lol.... It's really a easy job, just take ur time and make sure all ur lines are disconnected, and watch the fuel line attatchment on the bellhousing to make sure the metal bracket doesnt get sandwiched between the bellhousing and the engine adapter when u bolt the trans back up.

 

If you use a Porta Power, I'd put something wide under the pads. I used a smallish rubber pad on one end and it dented in my frame a bit, like 3/16".

It's not anything serious, but it still sucks.

(did this last weekend)