12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Surging/loping

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Old Sep 20, 2014 | 06:22 AM
  #16  
wilderness's Avatar
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From: Georgia/Kentucky
Originally Posted by Alfdude1
Just came back from the test drive after replacing the Overflow valve and the Prefilter. So far I am very impressed, but I only went about 2 miles. After it sits all night and I fire it up cold will be the real test. The whole job went pretty smoothly. The only problem I ran into was trying to keep the new gasket on the Prefilter bowl in place, but a little rubber cement took care of it. Did find the heater bolt loose. I jumped on the throttle and released it immediately several times and it did not stall this time. Throttle response seems to be better, too. Will keep you posted. Thanks for all the help,
Mike
Did you notice an increase of power? I always notice a big difference when I clean out the prefilter and bowl. It is a good idea to go ahead and change your main fuel filter when you change the prefilter. Also in the future, you can just take a blower nozzle or wash the filter in soapy water, rinse and dry good instead of buying a new pre filter. I only replace if it has a hole in it or isn't easily cleaned. Not sure if you ordered from Larry B's but if so, save their info. They seem to have the best replacement parts for your fuel and electrical system. If you ever have issues with your starter, they have parts to repair it and is much better than the parts store replacement starters.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 12:41 AM
  #17  
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From: Brightwood, Oregon
I wonder if the overflow and prefilter is the cause of my idle issues, the warmer the outside temp the lower my idle. (AC off) sometimes on a hot 100F plus day im idling threw parking lots at 400 rpm but as soon as the weather cools down im right back to 750-800
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 05:58 AM
  #18  
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From: Georgia/Kentucky
Originally Posted by joem
I wonder if the overflow and prefilter is the cause of my idle issues, the warmer the outside temp the lower my idle. (AC off) sometimes on a hot 100F plus day im idling threw parking lots at 400 rpm but as soon as the weather cools down im right back to 750-800
Have you ever checked and changed your fuel lines? I noticed the same with both of my 96 2500's. When the rubber inside the braided lines heats up it stretches and sucks more air. The best thing to do is order a fuel gauge and leave it installed so you can check the fuel pressure. Larry B's sells one that threads right on the top of the filter housing under the hood. I noticed a big increase in throttle response and power when I clean the pre filter and changed overflow but no change to idle. One other thing to check is your timing. Bump it up to 14-15* and you'll be pleased with the fuel mileage and that effected my idle. Let us know.
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Old Nov 3, 2014 | 10:58 PM
  #19  
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From: Anaheim, CA
Spoke too soon!!

It really gets bad when it is cold and the engine is just started, If I give it the slightest bit of throttle or take it out of gear, it smooths right out.
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 10:27 AM
  #20  
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From: Canada & sometimes Mexico lol
You only did half of what I suggested !!!!
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Old Nov 5, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #21  
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From: Anaheim, CA
Sorry Mark, just reread your post. I'm going to sound stupid, but is there a written procedure for the gov springs? Diesel work is new to me.
Mike
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Old Nov 10, 2014 | 06:05 PM
  #22  
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From: Canada & sometimes Mexico lol
Its as simple as either going into the top of the pump through the afc or through the side port (large round plate with socket head built in). If you go in through side port, note you will spill some oil out of plate !!!! If you go in through afc, no oil spillage but you will have to take note of afc reference position and also camplate position, as you will have to remove the camplate to easily access the gov springs/weights.

Either way, your choice. Once in pump, rotate engine over by hand using 22mm socket on alternator nut, until one of the gov weight/springs shows up with slotted nut on stud. Take a flat head screw driver and turn slotted nut counter clockwise 1 click (you will fill the click as the nut has a indent profile on bottom side) which = approx 110 degs of rotation. Simple as that.

Now rotate engine by hand again until the other gov weight/springs shows up with slotted nut on stud. Turn out one click also.

Put everything back together in the reverse order and position as it was. Simple as that.
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Old Oct 26, 2019 | 04:28 PM
  #23  
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Did the loping issue get resolved by making the changes recommended on this thread? If so, would you be willing to share them? Thanks
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