WOW!!! just put in my new starter contacts and plunger, and what an easy job that was! I dont think there is an easier fix to our trucks then this, it took me longer to get the starter out then to switch the parts out. starts like a new one too! the old ones were definitly shot, hardly anything left of one of them, but changed other one anyway. just had to rant! ;D

 

Well, where did you get the contacts from and how much $$ for the contacts? Thanks, Kevin

 

Any tips or tricks for removing the starter?

 

well, I paid 19 bucks for mine on Ebay, but larry foster sells them on his site for under 40 ,and as far as getting the starter out, it is probebly the easiest starter if have ever taken off. 3 - 10mm starhead bolts,hold it on, 1- 5/8 wrench to take of nut on power cable,{ watch for sparks!!} ??? 8mm wrench for the small ground wire and its off. switching in and out the contacts and plunger are even easier.

 

I did notice the contacts being sold on ebay. Are you hapy with the quality of the product? Sounds like a inexpensive, easy fix. Did you have any problems with the starter or was this just a prev. maint. type of thing. Thanks, Kevin

 

I bought the ones from Larry and I can tell you they are a lot better made. They are wider and thicker than the oem ones.<br>DM01

 

yeah , the ones on E-bay were the wider ones too, .. look monsterous compared to factory! my starter was doing alot of clicking and not alot of starting, sometimes when i would get it to start the starter would stick too, soI decided it was time to replace!

 

Anyone have a link to the Ebay auction? I did a search and found nothing. I would like to see what this guy is selling.<br>Larry ???

 

see if this works, item #2417901517 sorry, I do not know how to pull it directly to this post.

 

Here's my starter story...<br><br>For quite a while, intermittently I had a hard time starting my truck. I thought it was from adjusting the shifter linkage too tight (the TransGo directions say to remove all slack). About a week and a half ago, I put in a new ignition switch as the &quot;halo&quot; switches are notorious for failure.<br><br>At first, it seemed to help, then got worse. 6 days ago, put the original switch back in. All the time, it seemed that if I wrestled the shift lever, I could eventually get the truck to start. 5 days ago- no start at all. Loosened the linkage a little, no effect. Installed a new neutral safety switch (another theoretical problem, bought it many months ago). Still no go. So, off with the starter. As soon as I removed the end cap from the solenoid, there it was- positive contact completely worn out! (I know, it's another common failure.)<br><br>Fortunately, I had on hand a couple of sets of the heavy duty (twice as big) contacts I had picked up on eBay a couple of months ago. If ever you have starting troubles, consider this. The solenoid would &quot;click&quot; in, but the starter wouldn't turn (sometimes, at least until after a bunch of tries). That probably should have been A BIG CLUE! I sure would look funny if anyone had a video of me cussing and pushing the shift lever around.<br><br>The rest of the starter looked good (checked the brushes, etc.), lubed the reduction gears, sanded the copper contact washer on the plunger, and put it all back together. WHAT DO YOU KNOW, it starts first try now!! <br><br>Removal/installation tips- <br>

• Disconnect both positive cables from the batteries before doing anything else!
• Two of the three 10mm 12point head bolts are easy to get on with a 1/2&quot; drive socket. On the third one, I had to use a box wrench with a larger wrench over it for enough leverage.
• Don't loose the ball bearing that goes between the plunger and the starter drive.
• If you pull the armature out to look at the brushes and commutator, you will have to remove the two small phillips screws that hold the brush holder into the end cap, allowing the end cap to come off (brush holder is attached to the field coils). Then you can push the brushes back in to get them back over the commutator.
• Three #3 phillips screws hold the gear reduction nose together. A 3/8&quot; impact removes them easily, might as well pack some good moly grease in there.