I did a bunch of searches, which has narrowed the options to fuel pressure, torque converter, and something else entirely unrelated to the other two.

Before suggesting anything to do with the fuel shut-off solenoid, this problem happened last summer when it was really hot, also, but sometime in the fall or winter I completely removed that solenoid and replaced it with a manual push/pull PTO cable under the dash. I couldn't be happier. It seems the problem mostly went away, but every once in a while it would still stall while maneuvering in reverse.

Now that the weather is HOT, the problem has come back with a fury, so the earlier relief could also be coincidental with the season. I would think it has got to be related to temperature or the air conditioning, since I have the air conditioning on now many times. It still seems to do it when I shut off the air conditioning, but I need to do some more testing to see just how much difference it makes. Meanwhile, I am willing to hear any ideas while I prepare an update.

I also have a possible vacuum leak, as even with the known leak to the venting control isolated, I still usually have the idiot light for the brakes and air bag.

 

Your vacuum leak seems unrelated to me. Whats your idle set at? Thats the most common reason for stalling.

 

That was my thought too. Dodge's revised idle spec is 800 RPM in gear with the A/C on. (if it's an automatic) It's pretty common for the idle setting to fall off 100 or so RPM, then they like to stall the way you describe.

 

Is that in gear, but holding the truck stopped with the brake, or letting it idle down the road?

I'll check for a thread on how to adjust the idle in case that's it. Thanks for giving me an easy thing to check first!

Yes, it's an automatic. Full specs are in signature, but I forgot not everyone has those turned on. Which reminder just made me look over those specs again. Any way that my timing causes it? It was a big time TDR member expert that did it at the time. He also found that the fuel plate had been modified before I got the truck.

 

Generally, retarded timing will cause loss of power, popping and missing in the higher rpm, white smoke, etc. Stalling could be a symptom, but since you didn't mention those, I'll stick with my idle guess.

Spec is for it to be stopped, in gear with the A/C on, when the engine is hot. If you set it on a cold engine, you'll idle higher once warm, so it may try to push through the brakes at a stop. You may want to adjust it lower than 800, thats personal preference. If its 5-600 rpm, I'd bring it up. I keep mine at 800-875, but that is also a manual.

 

Mine did the same, and so does a friend of mine's truck. I adjusted the idle, and it doesn't stall at all. Free and easy to do- definitely check there first.

 

mine only does that if its cold. annoying at best. until i get around to adjusting it ill usually let it run for a few minits b4 i take off

 

Wow. I had no idea. Looks like the idle was about 600. I bumped it to 700 after reading how to do it and fiddling with it a bit. I adjusted it while cold, but only to about 700. I can already tell it's going to make a big difference. Now I'll keep on eye on it later today when I take it on some errands.

These measurements are with the factory dash tachometer, which one article said is not accurate enough, but what the hell. It's not like I'm trying to tune a piano.

So how much fuel mileage will I lose in the city? Ha ha...

 

I've heard that, but I've put a digital timing light on both my trucks, and the dash tach has been dead accurate on both of them.

 

After two days of driving, the problem is gone. At operating temperature, A/C on, in gear and stopped, I'm now reading 740 or so. No need to bump it up that I can see.

I think I have better vacuum pressure now, too. Does that make sense? I used to have to wait a bit for power brakes sometimes, and usually had a brake light on. Haven't seen the brake light in two days and haven't noticed any delays in getting the power brakes after start up.

You guys are great. Thanks!

 

Only vacuum source is the vacuum pump. Only thing a vacuum leak would do to the engine is make it look like it had blow-by.

 

Yeah, I was just wondering if the higher idle was driving the pump above a certain performance threshold.

 

the higher rpm will make vac. faster.
and now arnt you glad you got all this free advice ? you saved your self a wadd of cash ,now go buy some hot rod parts