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ROTORS Again !! - 98 truck

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Old May 17, 2011 | 03:51 PM
  #16  
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Originally Posted by infidel
I've always called the problem that seizes two metals together galling.
Galling would be transferring of metals from one part to another, typically from an interference fit.
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Old May 18, 2011 | 12:30 AM
  #17  
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From: The Great White North
Originally Posted by jstone44720

I'm interested to see what it finally takes to remove that rotor.

Well, a DTR member from the east coast (JKM) was passing through town and all it really took is a little farm boy know-how, a BFH and brute force (and a couple of buggered up 1/2" extensions). We just ended up pounding the rotor off from behind, using a 1/2" extension and the 14mm socket.

The rotor is replaced now (with even more antisieze). THANKS Jayme for lending a hand (ok, maybe I lent the hand)....

There is a GREAT bunch of guys that I have got to personally know on this forum !


Oh, and BTW, a guy at work loaned me a 3 jaw puller and it didnt work either - although it wasnt really large enough.
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Old May 18, 2011 | 11:01 AM
  #18  
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
Glad to hear, sorta.. I better get a bigger BFH before I try this..
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Old May 18, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #19  
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From: The Great White North
5"or 6" X 1/2" extension on the socket and HIT IT HARD
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Old May 20, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #20  
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From: Fort St. John B.C. Canada
I am getting close to attempting this job myself right away too. I bought one of these and hope it works http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
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Old May 21, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #21  
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From: The Great White North
Originally Posted by Swamp_Donkey
I am getting close to attempting this job myself right away too. I bought one of these and hope it works http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog
Nice find John, I did not know that animal existed. it will be a cheap investment if it works. However I did not even try a 6 point socket on the bolts.

Make sure you use enough antisieze in the right spots, I didnt for some reason.
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Old Jun 9, 2011 | 11:13 AM
  #22  
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
Well I got the ball joints done this last couple days as well as a drivers wheel hub bearing. I first just beat the extension and socket on the bolts with BFH on the pass side with no movement. Then I used the extension against the diff tube end and then hit the steering arm extension. A few stiff blows from there did the trick. All was good until my air compressor decided to blow out the crank case.

Thanks for the tips guys.
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Old Jun 10, 2011 | 12:47 AM
  #23  
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From: The Great White North
Good to hear you got it done. BFH and some know-how goes a long way.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 09:53 PM
  #24  
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From: hour drive north of Spokane WA
mine were really rusted on too

mine took:

a 1/2" drive socket slightly too big
short 1/2" drive extension
11 yr old boy
power steering


get that bolt screwed out a few turns, put the socket over it, have the kid turn the wheel until I can get the socket between the steering stop lug and the bolt, had the boy turn the wheel back, goes something like this:

"OK TURN IT, NO THE OTHER WAY"
"YA THAT WAY, MORE..... MORE.....KEEP TURNING. "dad its hard to turn" "YUP KEEP TURNING, HARDER. KEEP TURNING...... MORE....STOP!!"
"OK TURN IT BACK, NO THE OTHER WAY!!!!!
"OK STOP......STOP!"

heh
it popped off, but wowza thats a lot of pressure!
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 11:59 PM
  #25  
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From: The Great White North
I was outsmarted by an 11 year old.....again....
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 10:51 AM
  #26  
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
I was afraid of stressing the steering too much for that trick.
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Old Jun 17, 2011 | 10:05 AM
  #27  
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From: Montana
it popped off, but wowza thats a lot of pressure!
I've heard shotguns that were quieter than a stuck rotor when it finally pops off.
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