Dr. Evil

Fellas, I was lucky enough to have another caliper seize and ruin the rotor (different side than before).

Anyway, someone refresh my memory on what is required to pull the rotor off on a 98 second gen. I have tried Infidels trick using the power steering pump to pop the hub off but it has never worked for me. I just end up bending brackets on the differential. So the nut stays on until after you get the hub seperated? I dont see how the hub will come off with the nut still on ??


Last time I had this apart, i gooped everything up with antisieze. I didnt use enough antisieze I guess. Has anyone used a puller to get the hub off?

esde

I had a hard time with one of mine. I left the axle nut torqued. Loosened each of the 4 bearing bolts a few turns, and went for a very slow drive down a really bumpy road. That got it loose enough that I could slip a wedge under the flange from the back and get it out the rest of the way. Be extra careful and it may work for you.

Tate

If you leave the nut on the stub shaft, you'll pull the inner/outer axle shaft assembly out with the hub. This may be easier in the long run. Not sure what bracket you were pushing off of, IIRC, it was a steering stop in the inner knuckle I was pushing against, worked very well.

infidel

Reason for leaving the big nut tight is to keep from busting the bearing apart.
You aren't really pushing the bearing off the axle with the power steering method, just moving it a fraction of an inch to break the rust loose.

Dr. Evil

Thanks guys.

The underside of my truck is pretty rusty I assume thats why the bracket is bending. I still cant get this to work and its pretty frustrating to say the least.

I may have to try what esde suggested and drive around the block to try to break it free.

infidel

Your guys' roads are too smooth.
Come down to Montana if you need a bumpy one.

Dr. Evil

The highways may be smooth, other than the ocassional frost heave. But Edmonton is the pothole capital of North America !

jstone44720

I contest your claim to pothole capital, and submit my own road. I need Carli's suspension just to break 5 MPH, but I haven't seen anything for 2wd. The township guys claim its so bad because it is near the creek and there is never dry ground to work with.

On the rotor, do you have the option to drive something else a few days?
PB blaster has saved my butt a few times. Soaking every morning and night may loosen it if you have the time.

Dr. Evil

used probably a half can of PB Blaster on it already. Thanks though....

jstone44720

Has anybody ever tried drilling a hole in the face of the rotor hub and tapping it with a bottoming tap. Then you could thread a bolt in it and press the rotor off the hub. Maybe you could do this to your new ones going on to help next time?

Would a large 3 jaw puller used to put tension on the rotor help? Put some pressure on it then tap it with a hammer a few times. You may be able to back the nut off the stub a bit and use it to prevent the center from sliding off the end of the stub.

Good luck.

Dr. Evil

Actually, my buddy at work says he has a big puller. I will try that next.

esde

problem is what's called oxide jacking. The rust on 2 surfaces working against each other have locked the bearing in place. More anti seize next time. Or good BBQ paint.

infidel

I've always called the problem that seizes two metals together galling.

Lil Dog

With rust like that, impact vibration usually helps a lot over just blunt force. If you get the big puller, then just get it snugged up and start to get some impact on one of the components.

Now you've go me scared to try and do my ball joints.

jstone44720

3 jaw puller + PB Blaster + Air Hammer or needle gun ? Scary.
Maybe turning down the air pressure and using an impact on the puller?
It seems bizarre to go through all this to remove a rotor. Would you now file painting the back of the rotor with anti-seize or bbq paint preventative maintenance?

I'm interested to see what it finally takes to remove that rotor.