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No power to Shut Off Solenoid?

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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 11:23 PM
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No power to Shut Off Solenoid?

Does anybody know where the wires going to the solenoid come from on my '95 12v? The solenoid will stay up if you pull it up, but won't pull up by itself. With the ignition on I have power at the little green wire which is labeled "A" on the plug. But then, when you hit the starter I don't get power on "B" or "C". (The larger red and black wires) I tried to follow the wires but they're just such a mess. thanks,
-Adam
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 11:47 PM
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From: Peoria, AZ
Adam

I don't have the answer to your question, but I did have exact same problem on my 1995. I replaced the relay and the problem was fixed. The relay was so inexpensive I bought two, so I had a spare. Shipping was the same for 1 or 2. I hope your fix is as simple as mine. Below is the link to the relay I purchased.

Ross

http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Pro...422380327A617F

Last edited by AzTBH; Mar 18, 2009 at 07:23 PM. Reason: wrong word
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Old Mar 17, 2009 | 11:52 PM
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From: chewelah, washington
drivers side battery has a fusible link that corrodes off, also does your starter work as it should?
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 12:40 AM
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Actually it's called a run solenoid, check relay on firewall also. Fusible link wires on battery could be burnt or corroded connections.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 02:46 AM
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The black/tan wire is the ground wire, won't find power there. The red wire is fed from the relay. If the relay is bummed, then it obviously won't work. If the relay is good, then its possible its the fusible link from the battery. If that checks out, the trigger for the relay is off the starter solenoid post. Check that wire out. The other wire on the relay will be the trigger ground. Make sure it is grounded.
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Old Mar 18, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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Never replace the solenoid, they are a sturdy unit that rarely fails, expensive too.

Most often the problem is corrosion under the insulation of the blue wire (fusible link) at the battery. Many times you can't see the corrosion.
Next most common is a bad relay on the firewall.

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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Tate
The black/tan wire is the ground wire, won't find power there. The red wire is fed from the relay. If the relay is bummed, then it obviously won't work. If the relay is good, then its possible its the fusible link from the battery. If that checks out, the trigger for the relay is off the starter solenoid post. Check that wire out. The other wire on the relay will be the trigger ground. Make sure it is grounded.
What color of wire would the trigger relay wire off the starter post be?
And the trigger ground wire and where for sure does it ground at?
I also have a 95 dodge 2500 and it does the same thing won't start unless you lift up the plunger on solenoid, I've replaced the TPS fuel shut off solenoid ignition switch and the fuel shut off relay. It seems to work for a couple of times then won't work, every now and then it starts just fine. Took the blue fuseable link wire off and cleaned up the end and felt down the wire don't seem to have a problem. Any help I would be greatful for.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by K/SA 5848
What color of wire would the trigger relay wire off the starter post be?.
On my 98 the wire to the starter solenoid is a very small brown wire.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 03:44 AM
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From: Airdrie, Alberta
Originally Posted by K/SA 5848
What color of wire would the trigger relay wire off the starter post be?
And the trigger ground wire and where for sure does it ground at?
I also have a 95 dodge 2500 and it does the same thing won't start unless you lift up the plunger on solenoid, I've replaced the TPS fuel shut off solenoid ignition switch and the fuel shut off relay. It seems to work for a couple of times then won't work, every now and then it starts just fine. Took the blue fuseable link wire off and cleaned up the end and felt down the wire don't seem to have a problem. Any help I would be greatful for.
The wire is brown, like barngal said. If it works intermittently, look for broken wires. The fusible link and relays are cheaper to replace than the solenoid, so if you're gonna replace parts, thats where I'd start. Get a multitester and pull the relay, and probe the connections and make sure there is power where there should be, and grounds where they should be.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:18 AM
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I'd put a mechanical cable on it with a **** in the dash and call it a day.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 10:50 AM
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Putting a meter to a internally corroded blue fusible link won't always tell you anything.
Many times the wire will still flow juice, just not enough amps to lift up the high amp draw lift coil. It's like a garden hose with a kink in it, water still comes out but not enough.
This causes the blue wire to get hot and it may temporarily weld the corroded part back together, work for a little while then fail again.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 10:36 AM
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I checked the Red wire for the solenoid pull up when cranking and only get 10.63 volts, so that must mean my Blue fusible link is getting bad?
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 03:49 PM
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by K/SA 5848
I checked the Red wire for the solenoid pull up when cranking and only get 10.63 volts, so that must mean my Blue fusible link is getting bad?
Either that or the relay.
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Old Mar 21, 2009 | 11:17 PM
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Already replaced the relay
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Old Mar 22, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Fuseable link didn't help either
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