eng208

I've been turning wrenches as a hobby for a while, but never replaced a sealed hub. I want to make sure I have diagnosed my truck accurately first.

Noticed a couple of months ago (this truck is only driven about 3000miles/year) I was getting a pull to the left when hitting the brakes. Thought it might be a caliper grabbing or right not operating at all to start with, but hitting the brakes on dirt showed both lock up at same time. Confused me. Anyway, got me to thinking about wheel bearings and front end parts on this truck. I rebuilt it 45000 miles ago sans hubs but knowing how the front ends are, decided to check it out anyway. Raised the front and did the old pry bar wheel shake shimmy dance. Left side good and tight, pads for the most part even outside and inside. Right side....what's with this up down and side to side movement of the whole wheel? Nothing on the track bar or tie rods moving, wheel jumps up and down like lug nuts half off. Scared me knowing I have been pulling the boat and camper some like that. Never heard anything weird or anything. I even check the hubs with my hands to make sure they aren't overheating pretty regularly.

So does this sound like a wheel hub bearing to you guys>? Truck is one in signature-97 4WD stock suspension, 113K on it.
Need this thing fixed in two weeks for summer vacation with the boat at the beach.

vssman

There's only a few things that I can think of that would cause that: Loose wheel, really bad ball joints, hub bearing letting go. Armchair guess is the hub and they are not too bad to replace. Get the caliper off. I like to support the axle shaft at this time so that when I take the hub off I don't cause any damage to the oil seal in the axle. Take the large nut off the shaft on the center of the hub (you have an impact wrench right?) and the hub is held onto the axle with 4 12 point bolts. Unscrew them a few turns, place an extension on the socket that will fit between the hub and frame. Safely start the truck (front end on jack stands - both sides) and turn the wheel so that the power steering is a make shift press to pop the hub off. I'd go slowly and go back and forth on either side of the hub so that it is pressed out evently. Swap over to the new hub and put it all back together. I'd put a new rotor and lug nut studs on the front because those are pressed in through the hub. A punch and B.F.H. will drive them home.

Now while you're at it and before you put it back together... Look at the ball joints - you only have to remove the spindle and (I prefer) take it to an auto machine shop to R&R the ball joints. It's easier than beating on them in your garage. Next look at the u-joints on the front axle shaft and replace if needed using care not to damage the oil seal.

Good luck.

eng208

Thanks for the details. Seems like it won't be too bad. I just hope the axle shaft is not beat up from the lack of bearing support. Cant believe how it just failed like it did.

patdaly

Don't forget to clean the pocket in the spindle and never seize the hub bearing surface before you put it back in, the next time you won't curse getting it out.

eng208

Ok, I looked at several different hub assemblies on market from Advance and Oreilly's. I don't use NAPA anymore due to some very poor quality parts and poor service. Advance has always provided me with good service and parts here, and Oreilly's tends to have stuff the others don't. Each has two grades, and I don't want to do this again. One has a 1 yr warranty, the other has a three year warranty. I will get the 3 yr warranty if need be, it costs a little more but may save me some labor, may not. Are either of these ok to use?

FlaCracker

Get the set made by Timken, the bearings are very good. I got mine at OReillys.

patdaly

I second this, got mine from Rock Auto, something like 130 each?

gorms

Once upon a time I got my timkens at Autozone. Just another place to look, even though I wouldn't think they would have the "good" parts they do sometimes.

eng208

About the timkens. You guys are talking about just replacing he bearings right? This truck is a sealed hub. 4wd

patdaly

Nope, whole assembly, they even thoughtfully include new wheel studs.

http://www.rockauto.com/

I was wrong, 122 and change for one.

VACHZHD

Double check Auto Zone on-line... they have free shipping over a certain amount and offer a $20 gift card for each $100 spent on-line... has worked well for me so far...

They have the Timken sealed sets that come with new studs as well.

Hodge

I got timkens at Autozone, too, and they included new wheel studs.

eng208

I got the hub replaced. In the process, the r shaft came out. I gently cleaned and replaced it after getting the CAD shaft lined up and the truck engaged in 4wd. Problem now is it is weeping a little at the shaft seal and oozing out onto the axle ujoint area. Don't like leaks, but not sure about getting a seal in there without having a leak even with a new one. I know sometimes driving will heat up the joint and reseal it, stopping the leak. Any suggestions. I drove the truck about 5 miles, no leaks while driving, very small leak afterward. It sure does drive better. Fixed all of the shimmy and pulls.

eng208

BTW, I strongly suggest anyone trying this to engage the front CAD to keep the gear lined up if the shaft should come out. Very difficult to get everything lined up if not engaged. Also, you really need to people. Trying to separate that hub hanging off a flexible short shaft with no way to really get a good grip on it was the reason the shaft came out when it popped loose.

gorms

If the bearing has never been out it's probably on the shaft pretty good, but I try to tap the shaft out with a hammer while pulling out the bearing. Or wedge a big screwdriver inbetween the u joint to get some leverage on it. After the first time I pulled the bearing/shaft I also had a small leak that has since gone away, about 100k miles ago.