10kREDLINE

I've read through most of the recent threads, but i still have a few questions. The truck is a 95' CTD, reg cab 2500 automatic 4x4 with a plow. 66,xxx miles. Miles seem too low, which in my guess means that it was used mostly for plowing or utility (maybe a landscape truck?) But anyway, i crawled under, seemed to be no leaks beside an oil sweat on the oil pan, trans seemed to be dry, and the vehicle has been in the same spot for a day or two (i pass it on the way home from work). Given that background, and knowing that it has a plow, what else should i look for before i consider buying this truck? An insight as to what kind of preventative maintenance i would have to do to make this thing run forever would be great. Thanks guys. - John

Cummins Freak

with the plow make sure the trans works. and check the bottom of the doors to see how bad the rust is maybe a bargining point.

10kREDLINE

how much life is usually expected out of the trans when used under a plow application like that?

kawi600

plowing kills a transmission pretty fast. also you might see cracks in the frame around the mounts if its been beat up good. When I got my DTT trans I was advised not to plow with it.
Good idea to check for rust. common places are the lip of the doorskins, the cab floor under the driver and passenger's feet and the front cab mounts. push down on the carpet around the door sills to see if theres water. Check the fenders on the bed for rot where they meet the wheelhouses. If he had a heavy cap on the truck, check the front of the bed for cracks.
Id recommend the transmission soon, and at least gauges and a fuel plate to bring the power up where it should be.

Reelay

I have a 95 with the club cab,{now 119,118 miles} had it for several years very little problems with it other than the ones I create. It is all stock with a few minor twicks {see signature}. It was not ever used as a plow pusher just dragin horses around now and then, so far so good! Hope it works out for you with the low miles, hopefully not much rust,the tranny is checked out ok, the price is right with you, go for it. I am happy with mine. just my 2 cents--Ray

GearHd6

I second every last bit of that. Every single spot he mentioned make sure you check it close. REAL poor design on Dodges part in all those spots, could have easily been prevented with a little more thought.

kawi600

removing the taillight lets you spray some rust convertor in there over the wheelhouse and the fender lip, good for keeping the rust down there. I like the metal-ready stuff POR sells with their POR-15 paint. Must for rust is a good product too. Both should leave a film of zinc over the rust to keep it from reappearing. hope that helps

GearHd6

Where do you get the rust converter from? And does it neutralize rust thats already forming because I can see a spot about the diameter of a pencil eraser just starting to show over the rear wheel.

kawi600

do a google search for 'must for rust' I got a gallon of it from someplace online. I can try to dig up the receipt if you cant find any. Also POR-15's metal ready can be found on their site, http://www.por15.com/
If you hose it down a couple times it should turn white and stay like that as long as no moisture gets under the zinc film. I did my frame in spots and didnt cover it with the POR paint, and the stuff is still white.
You could fall back to paraffin spray if that doesnt work. The only problem is the mess when you have to do bodywork later on

10kREDLINE

regarding the plow package.. i did not see any cracks where the plow was mounted to the frame, everything seemed to measure up (when eyeballed , no tape measuring here). there was spot rust in the area, but surface stuff. i'll check the areas mentioned about the spots on the bed and the sills, as well as near the edges of the carpet. For the current owners whose trannies did fail on them, what signs did this particular trans give you before it crapped out? When i get a chance to drive the rig tomorrow im going to go through it as well as i can. What kind of gearing can i expect? a 4.10? I'll be able to deliver more info tomorrow, as i could not get hold of keys for it today. But any other info is greatly appreciated.

GearHd6

3.54's and 4.10's were the available gearing. I think 4.10's are a little to low for the CTD personally especially when running the highway. The 3.54's seem to keep the engine in the torque band better.
And make sure you look the front cab mounts over real well, basically right underneath your foot area. And the bottom of the doors also, from my experience those are the worst 2 areas for rust. Also look on the bed floor to see if you can see any small rust bubbles coming up from the bottom where the spot welds are.

GR40RCapri

10kredline- mileage on the truck? it does depend on WHO owned it...i will be plowing with mine for the 1st time this winter, but i BABY my truck....

now, if my UNCLE owned it, that would be a different story...he broke an axle in his 88 f-350 (dana 60 ) front plowing of course...


Gear- there's TONS of products like that on the market-

Rust-oleum sells a good one (we carry it in out store in Webster- Chauvins)

Aluminum Jelly

POR-15 sells EXCELLENT products too...

noticed your local...i don't think i've seen your truck before... i work in Webster, and have been in the area all my life--sayin' hi..

J

GearHd6

GR40RCapri:

Thanks for the tips. My truck doesnt get driven all that much, I kind of save it for winter to pull my sled trailer.
Im originally from Windham, CT so I just moved here in May. Cant say im in love with this state thats for sure. Im ready to move back to CT, maybe next year.