Txwelder

My transfer case has been leaking for a while now. I got under there and noticed a nut was missing someplace about midway in the assy. I couldnt really get a wrench in there so I put a nut on it with some lock-tite and tapped it with a hammer and punch until it was as tight as I could get it. It stopped leaking for a while but started again. I want to just pull it and replace all the gaskets. Where can I get a good kit that wont cost an arm and a leg? Is there anything I need to know before pulling it?

BoostdCTD

I'm also wondering the same thing. My transfer case is wet from front to back so I figured I aught to check the fluid level... well to my surprise the fill plug wouldn't come out. Ended up stripping it out. I guess it is time to get out the welder and show it who the boss is!

Crimedog

Our T cases just use RTV from the factory. It's not too bad to pull it and split it apart and replace the seals (all of which can be gotten at a local auto parts store), then clean it up and slap some RTV on and bolt her together.

Txwelder

I actually did find a gasket, seal, o-ring kit on the internet for the NP-241. Would be worth the $28 or so just to not have a spotty driveway anymore.

TxDiesel007

Hmmm that kit u speak is the way to go..

BUT when mine was bad, lucas stop leak worked really well... not saying my tcase is perfectly leakless, but its much better than what it was. The only mess i leave is the blowby tube oil.. hehehehe

Rick

Txwelder

Ill do the kit, leaks bother me like fleas bother dogs. Just cant stand them. I know that vehicles leak, but an obvious leak at every parking spot you stop in is just poor maintenance. I would hate to be associated with that. If lucas would work I would sure use it but the puddle keeps growing so I gotta do it right. Thanks.

lews930

Am I too late? My transfer case just started to "really" leak with 237K miles.
Crimedog, is it really difficult to split the transfer case and reseal it?
I need to get this done soon. Do you think NAPA would have the correct seals? How do I determine the type of xfer case in my 97?


thanks guys

lewis

Crimedog

Lewis, I didn't find it very hard to split it and put it back together. While you're in there you can check the condition of the shift fork pads, too. I'm sure Napa can get you front and rear outputs, as well as the input seal. Shouldn't be more than $40-50 for all 3. I've never been inside mine before I split it apart, but I like to dive into stuff though. If you're comfortable with a wrench you can do it just fine.

You can see what kind of case you have by the ID plate on the back side of it. It should be a NV 241D or 241DHD.

Sidewinder

I got the following information from a member here named got...DIESEL?. I the procedure used it to split the cases of my transfer case and it worked great. I just resealed it with RTV and no more leaks. The only hard part was removing and replacing the split-ring (or snap ring). I borrowed a big strong pair of snap ring pliers for it. Here is the info from got...DIESEL?:

No problem. Yes it is only RTV, and yes you can do it in the truck.

Other than the two main halves, you'll see, on the driveshaft end, a tailshaft housing with a seal that seals the driveshaft yoke. Remove the 4 bolts that hold it in place and take it off.

Next there is another housing under that also held on by 4 bolts. Before you take them out, remove the snap ring that locates the rear bearing on the output shaft. 241's have a history of this snap ring failing, so I always replace it rather than stretch it twice. It's fairly heavy, so a stout pair of snap ring pliers is handy.

Once that is off, go ahead and remove the 4 bolts. That rear bearing will slide off of the shaft WITH the housing. There are pry places on two sides of the housing to get it started.

Once that is off, you are close to being inside the transfer case. Only one more thing left. What you are looking at next is the oil pump. It looks to have 5 tabs that index within the housing you just removed. Mark it for reference, it's clock position matters, make sure you line up the tabs with the slots in the last housing you removed.

You'll also notice a triangular hole in the pump cover that matches one in the base of the pump. These must align as well.
You'll see I believe 5 or 6 phillips machine screws...they hold the top cover on the pump. Remove these, but before you do, give them a good tap with a hammer and punch to make sure they break free and you don't slip the phillips head.

Once this is off there is nothing stopping you from finally taking the rear half off. Undo all the perimeter bolts. Again, there are two pry places on two sides....use them. It will come off kind of stiff because of the press in locating dowels. As you get it off, you will be inside the transfer case.

Notice there is a large light tension spring and washer on the end of the shift rail that might fall off when you remove the cover. It's okay, and they probably will fall off, just make sure to put them back on the end of the shift rail before you close it up.

The end of the shift rail is supported within the primary tailshaft housing. Be careful of the oil pick-up, it's only plastic, so don't crush it when you re-assemble the two halves.

Next clean up the flanges, apply a bead of RTV, and reverse the operation.

I know it seems like a lot of work, but trust me, it's really quite simple. Just take your time and don't force anything!!

Just follow this step by step and you should be OK.

lews930

Thanks guys, you've all been a tremendous help. I got the seals from NAPA today for $30 or so. Now to find the time to pull it out. I'm in the process of moving so time is scarce right now. I will update you all when I finish it.

thanks again for making a newbie to the board feel welcome

lewis