The dowels are easy to do once you figure out the trick to them. It took me about 90 minutes of messing around before I found on the internet the proper way of doing it. So I'll spare you some time.

What you'll need is a saw, and a belt sander.

Take your 1/2" dowel, cut it to a 12" length (you may need to adjust lengths, rearmost cylinders are the tightest), cut a slit in the end about 1" deep. Take the dowel to the sander, and sharpen it to a point like a pencil. The taper length should be around the same length as the slit. You take the sharp end and sand the point off until the diameter is around .300". Then tap them into the lifter. Give a decent pull on them to make sure they won't let go. A loose fit makes for a bad day. You can use rubber bands to hold two dowels together, I used zip ties.

You may also want to borrow a timing set to retime the truck when you put it back together.

 

It's easy to make your own tab or you can buy one from Cummins
p/n 3958017 Washer,Lock $1.83

 

Tate, thanks for the info on the dowels. Now for the timing set? Do you mean to re time the IP? I have never messed with the inline pumps, just the VE's on the first gens. I can set the timimg , and set the valves on them, so fill me in on the timimg for the this 2nd gen.

Thanks Bob

 

Best way to time the truck is with a dial. Snap-on Kit is around $250, you can make your own for less. Set the pump to the appropriate lift, set the engine to TDC, set and torque the gear. That is the jist of it. Obviously more in depth when doing it. Its easier to do it when everything is still apart, especially if you have a 4by. Don't have to lean over the rad because its not there!

There is a plug (24mm hex) at the front of the governor housing. Pull that out (there will be a decent amount of oil coming out), turn the pump until you can see the little arm in the middle of the hole. You'll need a mirror for this. If you have the engine at TDC, and you seat the gear there, it will be factory spec timing.

 

Tate, thanks, I would love too have a reason to buy some more tools, but re-setting to the factory spec will do, being its comp. stock.

So back to the pulling of the case its self.
1) i will have to pull the front case off
2) then pull the cam
3) then the pump gear

what other things will i have to look out for when /i start this project.

thanks Bob

 

i had to do my brothers a while back, we heated the cam gear with a torch, and used a gear puller, then heated it to about 225 F, in a pan of oil, a little portable stove is handy, make sure you lock tite all off the cover bolts and torque them pretty good, all so make sure you torque and or locktite the pump gear if not it can slip pretty easy, learned that the hard way

 

97ctdram, thanks for the advice. I am not going to pull the cam gear, just the whole cam. Might just get a good one from PDR, sence it will be out. Might go ahead and pull the head and stud it as well, for future mods. I will just have to see how whell my back heals up.

But I also have a built 47rh tranny, with a bunch of goodies to go on my first gen, along with a new paint job on the way.

Depending on the cracked case, i might tig it up, and see it will work for my 1st gen p-pump set up. Just a thought. Than agian a new one from cummins is only $225.

Bob

 

Tate,

When you p-pumed your 24, you just threw a new pump ger on right, or did you have to change that front case?

Bob

 

Had to change the case, they are quite different. If you could swap the pumps like that, I think this conversion would be much more popular.

 

cummins told me that the cases are the same part number and that there interchangable? He said the 12v, and 24v have the same numbers and show one front case for the two?

So now I am wondering, because the new case i hvae for mine, has a 99 build date on it.

Bob

 

I know cummins dealer in edmonton sells a fix for it so they should everywhere. (KDP) oops sorry should have read all the posts first.

 

Quote......
What I do need some info on is the correct way on using the wooden dowells on the tapetts. Any one out there actually done this them selfs?

Bob

clothes pins / fuel line clamps

 

Well every one all is good with the case housing I got. the 1999 build date was the recon date, and the motor was a P7100 pump case. So shes going to work. Had to call all the way back to Oregon at Cummins Northwest, Guy new a heck of a lot more than the Cummins South guy. Tate thanks for straitening me out on the 12v and 24v cases. Hopefully her in a week or two I will get this all fixed. if the back continues on with the great healing rate that its at now. I am sceduled to go back to work on the 23 of Feb. So I want to get her done before then.

Bob

 

That happened in my friends 98. It's a lot of work to replace so set aside some time. He used the dowels and it worked out just fine.
Make sure the injection pump shaft is super clean and dry before you mount the gear, maybe get a new nut and washer. We slipped his timing 2 times after the new case went in. Had to walk a few miles one night back to my truck so we could flat tow him back to the shop a reset the timing..

 

Cam73 now thats a busted case. Mine ant nere as bad. Its only got a crack, and with some JB weld its droppin a QT every 3-4 days. Depending on how bad it is when I get it off, I might put welding school to use and Tig it up. Might just work. Who knows it might end up on the 1st Gen for a p-pump conversion.
Thanks for the infor on the pump shaft, I would hate to slip the timimg. And I will have plenty of time, I have been laid up in bed sence October for my back, and just had surgrey 9 days ago, and am feeling like a new man. So I have 3 weeks before I go back to work, so I will give my self another 2 weeks of healing up before I start her. plus I still have the 1st gen for driving as well.
I see ur in Washington, I am from Oregon and use to be stationed in Whidbey Island before gettin stuck here in Florida. I miss the northwest, and the mountians. And elk hunting. Shoot me a PM.

Bob