kdp victim
kdp victim
Hey fellas,
Well right now i am laid up due to just having back surgrey on tuseday, so nows the time to do all the research I need to swap out the timing case on my new 98 2500, 4x4. I bought it last week knowing the case was cracked, but the deal was just to good, and its a supper cleen truck.
I just bought a new timing case, and seals. What I do need is a step by step how to, by some one who has done this. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, and can, and have fixed every thing on my first gen, so i know /i can tackle this job. I just want to make sure there is some guidenss on what to do the right way. For give the spelling, i am quite doped up for my back right now.
So any help will be awsome guys.
Thanks, Bob.
Well right now i am laid up due to just having back surgrey on tuseday, so nows the time to do all the research I need to swap out the timing case on my new 98 2500, 4x4. I bought it last week knowing the case was cracked, but the deal was just to good, and its a supper cleen truck.
I just bought a new timing case, and seals. What I do need is a step by step how to, by some one who has done this. I am an aircraft mechanic by trade, and can, and have fixed every thing on my first gen, so i know /i can tackle this job. I just want to make sure there is some guidenss on what to do the right way. For give the spelling, i am quite doped up for my back right now.
So any help will be awsome guys.
Thanks, Bob.
just did mine last weekend, it's a breeze, there is a link on here somewhere for very specific directions, it will be alot easier if your back is healed up as there is quite a bit of leaning over radiator etc good luck with both your back and truck
timing case swap
cbschmid, did you tab the KDP, or did you re[;ace the whole front timing case? Tabbing is a breez, b ut i find it hard to think of a timing case swap to be a breez as well. And I ant going to tackle the job for about 3 more weeks, let the back heal up some.
If any one has first hand knowledge on swapping out the timimg case, let me know. Thanks, Bob
If any one has first hand knowledge on swapping out the timimg case, let me know. Thanks, Bob
I have never done it, but I know its not a "breeze".
You have to take everything off the front of the motor.
I think in a 4x4 you even have to cut the core support off and reweld it back on. Not sure though.
Good Luck.
You have to take everything off the front of the motor.
I think in a 4x4 you even have to cut the core support off and reweld it back on. Not sure though.
Good Luck.
These aren't complete instructions but a very good outline
http://cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=111
One important thing they fail to mention is that you must remove the lift pump before pulling the cam.
http://cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=111
One important thing they fail to mention is that you must remove the lift pump before pulling the cam.
Hi the link posted by "Infidel" is as good as you will find on the subject. I did mine about a year and ahalf ago. The only thing we did differnt was the push rods in cylinders #5 & #6 dont need to be removed they can be set off the tappets and out of the way, also we used a magnet to lift the tappets and secured them in the up positon with small hose clamps. I'm not saying our way was better its just how we did it. With your aircraft background you should have no trouble at all. It just takes time. Good luck with the truck and the back! TOM
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dowells for tapets
So how dose the wooden dowls work on holding the tappets in place. Some advice from some one who has actually done this will help out a lot. And if there is any more good advice, or links out there to help me out with this new project. I still have a few weeks before I am going to start this being that I just had back surgrey this past tuesday.
Thanks guyss.
Bob
Thanks guyss.
Bob
I thought you could get away pulling the cam gear and leaving the cam in the block but i don't know for sure. I helped out with one about a year or so ago but it was a 5.9 in a single axle semi so I'm not sure of the compatability. We just pulled the gear though. I think to re install it then you have to get the cam cold and the gear hot, like put it in an oven. That's all I know on it. Probably not much help.
Have not researched it yet but will have one to do soon, the cam has to come out????? Why??
Most Cummins shops no longer remove the cam when replacing the case, cuts about $600 off the bill, you don't have to take the front end all apart. First turn the engine till the line up marks on the gears are lined up. A high quality three prong puller (Snap On is best) is used to remove the gear off the cam but there is also a special Cummins puller made just for it that works way better. The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.
The gear can be heated in two ways, 1) Toaster oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2) Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. Set the temp around 300 F. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the meantime you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and get stuck half way.
You need an extra hand for a few minutes to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump (don't drop the pump actuator arm into the crankcase!) and using a pry bar on the cam lobe, apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam can move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp welding gloves and slide the gear back on, sometimes might have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer.
I would only recommend this to someone with experience. Sounds a little complicated but is way easier. There are three draw backs: 1) gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2) Not aligning the crank and cam; 3) Allowing the cam to move back and pushing out the rear cam plug, then you will have to pull the engine.
Some people think this method causes a weaker fit for the gear but Cummins has been using this method exclusively for several years, I've never heard of a problem
Cam gear
Infidel, thanks for the info on pulling only the cam gear. I have a full set of tools to complete the job, but /i am not going to play the game running from the house to the shop with a hot cam gear. Plus, its not worth taking the chance on pushing the rear cam plug out. From what I was told buy a Cummins parts man they have one in there just for that reason.
What I do need some info on is the correct way on using the wooden dowells on the tapetts. Any one out there actually done this them selfs?
Bob
What I do need some info on is the correct way on using the wooden dowells on the tapetts. Any one out there actually done this them selfs?
Bob
Bill thanks for the explination, it helped a lot, i will be tabbing one that has not yet failed. Does anyone just make a tab, or everyone buying one from someone? Thanks again for the tips! Ryan



