I would not worry about a #53 12V....for some reason, they dont seem to crack like the 24V's. I believe the engine harmonics are different.

 

I will be calling the dealer tomorrow to see what it will cost to have it repaired.

 

A DEALER will take the screws to you.....I think I would talk to some independant repair shops before Id call a dealer.

 

A DEALER???... Say it ain't so!!! What Dr. Evil says....
PLEASE think twice about doing that unless you have a REALLY good friend or relative there that'll cut you a "brother-in-law" deal. A Dodge dealer working on a CTD out of warranty with Killer Dowel Pin damage is going to be VERY costly since they double or triple ALL the parts prices from Cummins!!!

Check around with some quality Diesel Mechanic shops that are familiar with Cummins "B" engines.
Those B engines are in a gazillion buses, tractors, bread and Frito-Lay trucks, Onan Generators and industrial mud pumps.

What do you guys think? SHould (could) he tow it to a Cummins auth shop and get them to work on a "B" engine in a Dodge? Will they even work on a Dodge anymore? I guess it depends on the Cummins shop.
I know down here one huge truck shop won't work on anything Cummins smaller than a "C" engine. Another Cummins truck shop across the interstate from the big shop is the area Cummins "B" engine warranty station (French-Ellison Truck Center) and that's where I've see some of the bread and Frito-Lay trucks congregate .
(And THAT's the place I buy my Cummins engine parts when I need them for 1/2 to 1/3 the Dodge price. )


Good Luck Prowler, we are very sorry you are experiencing this pain in an otherwise most excellent engine.

K.

 

this "53" how do i find it? on my tag under ref no. it sarts with 53-----

 

I understand they are cast into the iron block right above the oilpan on the driver's side or even some are on the passenger's side towards the front.
Fairly large letters (~3/4" high?) that stand on their own.. I.e, 53 not part of a string of other numbers. (I think mine says "26" or some other number like that.)
Someone posted some pics of where exactly to look for the "53" with a mirror while laying on your back under the engine.
Do a search on 53 block and sit back and you'll read for HOURS.

K.

 

Well, talked to the dealer and they told me 28 hrs. at $65/hr. Now way, I have it now in my brothers garage all tore apart. I will tackle it myself. I have worked on engines ect...in the past. I have all the time I want to get it done. I talked to a mechanic that works on out equipment at work and he said to just do it yourself. Just have to get the manual for the motor and get to it. The only problem that I see is the cam. If I have to take the gear off or remove the cam. I don't believe that any other damage was done. Just the case and the dowel. I also think that I can repair the case do to having a tig for the alum. But if that can't be done then I will be out just the case and the dowel.

 

28 hours??? PLUS parts...

Hate to say it - so I wont...lol.

Good luck....probably not near as hard as you think.

 

Checking on the camshaft now.

 

No real need for manual except for torque values, instructions here
http://cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=111

 

Thanks for the link!

 

You have to pull the cam as the gear is pressed on. You will need 12 - 1/2" x 12" long wood dowels to push into the tappets to hold them up while you pull the cam. There are 2 rubber plugs under the cowl that you pull out in order to lift the push rods out. Use a elastic band around each pair of dowels to keep them held up. Its not hard just take your time and mark the bolts for the timing cover as there are many different lengths. Front bumper must come off but there is enough play in the air condensor to just swing it out of the way.

 

i think i attached some pics could what u all are talkin about cause this leak? thank for any help

 

Possibly, or just the front seal.

 

You do not have to pull the camshaft. If nothing in the valvetrain was damaged you can save alot of time by simply removing and installing the camgear. I am not sure if they are all the same, but mine was was keyed and everything. With a simple 3 Jaw puller the gear slid right off the end of the cam.