Its not a recall because its not a safety issue. Recalls are usually only issued for safety issues.

 

Prowler....in addition to the new timing case, your going to need to replace and tab the KDP. The KDP prevents the case from walking.

 

I'm not to much on spelling. LOLOLOL To replace the timiing case I hear that I would have to remove the cam shaft. Is that true? Just wondered what a garage charge for the repair.

 

Yes the cam has to come out. I would guess 10hrs

 

Uh, fella's... you might want to re-read his original post. While the tabbing is an easy job, his timing case is CRACKED! The replacement of this part is NOT an easy job and requires the camshaft to be pulled! He won't have to worry about tabbing it after the case replacement as the new cases come with a shoulder in the hole to prevent this.

 

Here is link to whats involved in the repair. Click

 

Thats all well and good...BUT some people dont buy NEW cases - they get used cases.

 

98 12 valve has another potential problem.
You need to check the block casting for a "53" identification. Some "53" casting have a porosity issue on the passenger side. This will determine if you're looking to rebuild or replace at this point.


I was hoping someone noticed that.

 

Cummins warranted a lot of timing cases. Overall, the number of failures versus the number of engines produced is VERY low.
Dodge or Daimler-Chrysler purchases engines without a Cummins warranty. The proven reliability of Cummins engines makes it a very easy decision to self warranty for 5 year/100k mile.

-John

 

I had my kdp go out on my 98 around the same mileage. Even if you jb weld the case as a temp fix your still going to have an oil leak. Nine times out of ten, when the kdp drops, it rides the gear, hits the case and then right before the case cracks, the case will try to give tearing up the gasket behind it and then finally cracking. JB weld will reduce the leak on the case by about 25% but the majority of the leak comes from the tore up gasket. It is a very time consuming job.

 

I never thought about a used case, as it seems it would be costly to remove the used one. Don't know what the difference in price would be.

 

You don't have to pull the camshaft. Just pull the gear off the camshaft. But on when putting it back on you have to hold the camshaft forward in the block while pressing the warmed gear back on the cam. You do that by removing the lift pump. and using something in there to pry the cam forward.

I am in the process of fixing KDP damage right now. Its not a fun job at all, i will have around 6-8 hours invested in fixing it.

 

I don't envy you guys. I am gripping over just doing the KDP fix, so pulling the gears and getting the housing off makes me queezy...

 

Ok, I'm now aware that I have a big "53" on the side of my engine block! Now what!!!!!!!

 

Don't panic, there's a lot of people (me included) that have one and haven't had any trouble. Do a search on them and you will find alot of info on here. Where they crack is on the passenger side of the engine toward the rear, just above the oil pan. If you have an automatic, it will be behind the trans oil cooler.