075point9

So I bought a '94 12v with 263xxx km on it. I have loved it from the first mile. And like a responsible person, I researched common problems and their respective cures before buying the truck. I didn't waste any time getting a kit from DPP to fix the infamous killer dowel pin problem. Then, like a moron, I threw the kit behind the seat and focused on things like fuel plates, GSKs, and an obnoxious exhaust system, thinking, "What are the chances of this happening to me? Looks like a lot of work....
Fast forward 5000 km, and I'm backing out of the driveway when I hear a DING!. ??? So I hop out, thinking I must have hit a stick or something, but can't find anything and the truck's running like a top. Later I come out of the local parts store to get into my idling truck, and what do you know, there's a puddle of oil forming on the gravel. Bummer, must have blown a seal somewhere. So, unable to see the source of the problem, I begin tearing the front end apart and this is what I find.





That little beauty of a pin had to make room between the gear and the gear housing. In a way I'm lucky, as it could have worse. But now I have to find a used housing, buy a new one from dodge for $900, or, and this is the most tempting option, I know a guy with an engine out of a 97 that he might sell for a doable price.
If you have a truck that hasn't had this fixed, do it now. Don't drive it to town one more time. Don't start it up again. Don't go eat supper first. Do it now. There, I warned you. It's not a legend or a myth or something that could theoretically happen. It's a threat to your happiness. And when it happens, believe me, it sucks.

sootnsmoke

Sorry to hear about that and I have seen posts of many others that it has happened to. I tabbed the dowel pin in our 91 within 4k miles of buying it and on our 96 within 3k miles of buying it. I guess I was fortunate to read about others nightmares. You are right though, could have been much worse. The pin was 1/8 inch out of its hole at 86k miles. Were the case bolts little more than finger tight as well?

075point9

No, they were tight like they should be if I remember correctly.

Diesel Dave2

Yes...Could of been worse...Seen a truck that lost it's pin...It got in between the gears, and shed the cam gear right off..

I was lucky with my 95...Bought it with 365K kms...When I did the KDP,the pin was still flush with the block..It's weird that some pins will work there way out and some don't..But don't take a chance, of cracking a housing or worse,destroying a engine..

whiskers

I had one on a '97 blow the whole top section out while I was a 1000 miles from home and headed further out. Pulled up to a parts house, bought 3 kits of JB Weld. Dug a few pieces of cardboard out of the dumster and proceeded to rebuild the section with the old pieces bridged with cardboard and slathered in JB Weld, Several coats, they dry fast. An hour later Ifilled it up with oil and headed on my way. That truck was still wearing that patch when I sold it 125K later. Your housing can be repaired. There is no pressure on it, all it has to do is hold in the oil. And JB Weld is good to about 400 degrees. We've used it to close off water ports on Jeep heads for years!

075point9

I will definitely see what I can do. One thing I am concerned about is the little chunkies of gear housing lying around. If that stuff gets deep into the block...yikes. But hey, the cummins motor is bulletproof right? Maybe it's time to start walking the walk.

whiskers

The chunks went to the bottom of the pan probably. And the oil pickup has a screen on it. Mine never picked up the trash evidently!

joem

my kit is still sitting beside my computer here in the den, when I bought it at the local Cummins shop they said it was a urban myth and that they have never seen a 6bt have this happen and not to worry.
Looks like I should get off my butt and get it installed- Do I need to pull the Rad to get better access or just the fan?

BigIron70

I hate to say it but you need to pull the camshaft to remove the timing cover housing along with the injection pump gear. Check the alignment pin in the crankshaft gear make sure it didn't shear off indicating the gear had slipped on shaft.

patdaly

Yea, well print those pictures off, or better yet, print my fiasco with my KDP off and ask them just what could cause it if it is such an urban myth?

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ght=whackamole

I didn't even bother to pull the fan shroud, just put a piece of heavy cardboard between rad. and shroud ( to allow an oops factor ), unscrewed the fan from the bearing assy, and rolled it out like Infidel said to. From there it is relatively easy to finish diss assembly.

Oh yea, in case you wondered how I fixed it........
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=case+fix

joem

I really should have my rad cleaned and inspected anyway, think ill'pull it all apart and also do the sport headlights all in one shot. To bad i have a nasty cold, its 65F here today

075point9

I know. When a mechanic friend told me this I almost cried. But I think in my case the gear is fine because the truck ran perfectly after it happened. Just had some bleeding once it warmed up.

075point9

Yeah you should do it. I would just pull everything, it's not that much work and gives you a chance to make sure everything's peachy and clean your engine if necessary. For me the worst part was the front bumper. Not complicated just really nasty rusty bolts.

texasprd

I have no idea on the availability or quality, but here's an option on the case (posted in another thread on this site: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...k-t306332.html):

http://www.agkits.com/cummins-5-9l-1...s-3936256.aspx

As suggested in that thread, you also might be able to get it TIG-welded...

Please keep us updated, and good luck - hope it doesn't turn into more of a horror story!

075point9

Ok right now I'm in the middle of JB Welding it and I have high hopes that it'll work out. It's not perfectly in place but from what I can see it should still be ok. My biggest worry is whether or not the seal behind the housing is ok. As long as it doesn't leak that's all I need.
I just really want to avoid pulling the cam. I already tried heating the cam gear and pulling it off the shaft but no go. I don't want to reef on it too hard because a local mechanic said the last two he tried to do he broke the gear.