Hey guys, I'm getting ready to install my 370's pretty soon and I have a few questions. I bought the install kit with all the washers, return line clamps/washers, etc... Now, I've read that due to the spray pattern of 370's you should use the thinnest washers with the kit. I've also read that you should use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the factory washers and use the corresponding washers with the kit. So, which is it? How much fuel pressure is there going to be in the lines when I crack them loose to remove them? I've read that there is enough pressure in the lines to break the skin. Is this true? I'm going to try to remove all of the fuel/return lines from the pump and injectors and remove them as one piece so that I don't have to bend the lines at all. Does this sound right? I see that the new injectors have a "ball" in the side that I'm guessing rides in a notch or hole. Do they just snap in once you start to thread them in? I'm going to use the conduit/lug nut method to pull them out. Other than being careful about cleanliness, what other advice do you guys have for a first time injector installer? I'm definetely not scared to get in there and do this, but I'd like to get all the advice I can before I start. Thanks for any advice you guys can give me!

MIke

 

Good to see you have done a fair share of research.

- Put the Thinnest washers in.
- Fuel pressure is only produced while the engine is running, so no worries about pressure when changing injectors...engine will be off.
- Yes, defineatly remove the injector lines as an assembly...not as bad as it looks...but makes a re-assembly alot easier when lines are not bent.
- The ball?...there is no slot they fit in...just push the new injector in the hole...no alignment necessary. Of course you will have to torque the retaining nut, to spec.
- Conduit and lug nut is how I did mine...best way.
- Other tips: I live in WI, so there was rust around the sides of the injector bores (in the head), and it all fell down on the surface which the copper washer seals against. Taped some 1/4" plastic tubing to the end of my vacuum, and sucked each one of these bores out. When you pull an old injector, just take a peak down the hole with a flashlight, and it will tell you right away, whether you need to do any cleaning. Also, the lines the bleed off lines which are daisy-chained across each injector, are the most tedious. Have read that you should compare the original to the new, and make sure the new are the right size...some guys have used their originals, because the new were of larger diameter. You will have to make the call, with the banjo bolt used to mount it to the side of the injector.

 

I used a bit of anti seize on the injector to washer to make installation easier. That way the washer won't fall off when you put the injector in.

 

Sounds like you have a great grasp on what to do.
There is a notch the ball lines up with, you can't miss it.

 

shouldn't you wait 3mins before removing injector lines for pressure to drop? This is if you drive the truck at all before you start changing them.

 

Pressure in the injector lines is maintained until the injector reaches it's pop off pressure. No real way to release except to untighten a line but the amount of fuel expelled when you loosen the line from the injector is barely noticeable and for it to cause an injury situation would be very hard even if you were trying. If the engine were running when you untightened a line is a different story.

Main cause of people getting injured by high pressure diesel is by feeling for leaks with a bare hand. Some times the leaks are so small and such high pressure that the wet spot can be several feet away and where it's coming from impossible to see.

 

Pick up a injector hole cleaning brush , and then do the vacume cleaner trick.

 

Thanks for all the advice guys! Does anyone know off hand what to torque the new injectors to once I get them in there? Thanks again!

MIke

 

It is a good idea to spray some WD40 or other penetrating oil around the nozzles a couple of days before you do the job. Then if you have a compressor, blow off all around the nozzles, before you do the job, to get as much dirt and grime away from them. All the other advise is good as well.
First and second gen heads a nearly identical. There is a little slot to line up with the ball on the nozzles when you install them. I have a second gen head on my first gen.
Its not a bad job, once you do it, the second time will be a snap.
Good luck

 

GUNK will clean everything up nicely.