Hey guys this evening my dad and I are buying a 98 12v/auto truck and it had an electrical fire on the drivers side under the hood and torched some wiring and the drivers side battery but the engine is unharmed and told it ran great before catching fire.

I wanna just hear the engine run before we buy it, i'm not gonna try to load it on the trailer i know it probably won't go as the trans is electronic and computer and all that crap.

My question is if i bring a good battery, some jumper cables, a thick wire for jumping the starter, a length of wire with a female spade on the end to attach to the shutoff solenoid , i should get it started right??

does the shutoff solenoid allow the engine to start when it has 12 volts TO IT or does it work opposite? as soon as i pull the jumper wire off it should shut the engine down if it works that way.

I was also gonna forget about the key inside and just run a wire directly to the starter solenoid to crank it, once i get it cranking which i'm sure ill figure out, i just need to know what to do with the shutoff solenoid !!

thanks

 

12V will bring the solenoid up, but why even bother? Just take a coathanger and pull the lever up............ much simpler than playing with voltage.

As for loading it, it will move just fine onto the trailer, just be kind of sluggish.

 

I would use some zip ties or bailing wire to keep it up. Once its up it doesn't take much to keep it there.

 

Once the shutoff lever is up?

Bare with me here I've never messed with a P-pump before so I'm hoping it's all obvious stuff i can find when i get there?

 

Bailing wire works great for that.

Run the bailing wire down around it so when you pull it will pull the solenoid up and just give it a turn or two to hold it there. To shut her down all you need to do is untie the wire.

You can jump the starter either by connecting a jumper to directly to the little start wire or you can pull the start solenoid in the panel right next to the battery and put juice to the spade closest to the fender.

Truck should move, put it in 1st on the shifter and it should lock into first gear. The electronics are only for sensing and controlling the governor pressure. The rest is still hydraulic and controlled by valves. Line pressure is still done by the throttle valve cable.

Considering it already toasted some wires, I would not turn the key to the powered position, all you need to do is unlock the wheel to steer it.

What are you going to do with the truck? Fix the wiring harness and run it?

 

you must be pretty old, baling wire hasn't been used for years in my area, they use twine

 

Actually no, I would be considered young by most people. We use twine, but our cousins used wire up until a few years ago, now they use all twine. I do know someone that still uses a wire bailer. The reason we have is its left over from the wire tie balers we used to have years and years ago.

 

Instead of tying up the solenoid, take a 8mm (5/16") wrench and take the two bolts that hold it to the bracket off. Just press the lever down to kill the engine. Don't need to tie anything up, or untie anything.

 

Curious, will the lift pump work suck up fuel without the sending unit on? I'd say jump out the relay, but the fire area sounds like where just about all the wires ran. Maybe run a fused link off a battery to jump it, or at least ring the wires out with a meter to make sure they aren't grounded/shorted.

PS I use bailing wire all the time, twine sucks under heat!

 

Around this area every older truck on the road has at least one roll of bailing wire in the back. If it wasn't for bailing wire there would be no trucks running around here.

 

Its a mechanical P-pumped engine with a mechanical lift pump as long as no one fooled with it. Once he gets it fired up he's good to go as long as none of the hydroboost lines are burnt up.

 

What he said^^^It uses a piston pump like the ones we upgrade to on our trucks.

 

Well it turned out to be a 97 not a 98 like the guy said. The power steering lines are roached and pump is dry but hydroboost stuff looks good with the exception of the plastic master cylinder being oozed and melted of course

it still has brakes though that actually stop the truck when it's rolling

Looking to fix the truck, Need a 96-97 Automatic wiring harness. a few little wires are roached in the cab where heat transfered up them i guess so we'd entertain in buying a complete harness if we can find one somewhere.

 

about that.....


anyways. got it running. purrs like a ........well a cummins.

thanks for all your help guys....also had to learn how to bleed a P-pump injection system....as the PO of the truck decided to leave enough fuel in the truck to run for 4 seconds.