How does one test an Injection pump on a 1997 twelve valve?
How does one test an Injection pump on a 1997 twelve valve?
Or maybe that is not my problem, here is the senerio, it has me baffeled. I had a leaky fuel line, and replaced both suction, and return lines back to where they were solid. I did away with the plastic lines and used fuel injection hose in its place. After this it would start hard (I needed to hold my foot on the throttle, and if I lost it, then I had to get out and manually pump the lift pump up). I took it to the dealer for the throttle linkage recall, and asked them to see if they could gimmie advice on the hard starting. They couldn't get it started and had to push it into the shop, siad it was the lift pump that was bad. I replaced that (a fun job I might add) and it still will not start. I dropped the tank again, and I can pump fuel up with the lift pump, and have it come out the return line to the tank. I've been told, fuel shouldn't pump through the injection pump, and that the injection pump is bad. I'd reall like to confirm this before spending any more money, or am I looking in the wrong direction? Any thoughts would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thank you
Traver.
Thank you
Traver.
Also, is the injection pump mechanical, or electric? And I have verified that the shut off selanoid is lifting when the key is turned on, so I am assuming it is working properly.
fuel returning to the tank is normal. it goes through the overflow valve, which could potentially be your problem. do a search on it. the pump is mechanical and is widely considered a pretty tough inj pump so make sure you rule out other issues b4 replacing it. have you checked your filters? there is a pre-filter screen/fuel heater right next to the lift pump... in my '97 that little rubber elbow looked ok from the outside but was all cracked and rotted on the inside. also, not sure, but i think that bad timing can cause hard starting too.
From the description you give, the IP is fine , does the truck run fine once it is started?
It sounds like one of your lines somewhere had a very small leak somewhere , just large enough to let air in , but not let fuel out , and the system is losing prime.
It sounds like one of your lines somewhere had a very small leak somewhere , just large enough to let air in , but not let fuel out , and the system is losing prime.
Thanx for the input.
Traver
check your overflow valve,mine did the same thing.Once i got it running it was ok as long as it was at 1000rpm at idle it would die.Once you get it running put vicegrips on the return line it should idle,then open grips and if it wants to die crimp it.It should idle if yes overfolw valve is bad
hope this helps
hope this helps
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Changing the OF valve is a 5 minute one wrench job as long as you don't lose the sealing washers. Stuff a rag inbetween the the pump and engine to catch it. On some engines the top of the valve hits the intake before it will come out, don't bend the line to get it out, it will be very difficult to line back up again. Instead grind or file the notch on the intake to make it fit.
Object at lower left is the oil fill

You won't find a better price on a OF valve
Precision Diesel Injection and Turbo Inc.
Marty Tompkins
888-734-7349
$35 + $7 shipping and handling.
Object at lower left is the oil fill

You won't find a better price on a OF valve
Precision Diesel Injection and Turbo Inc.
Marty Tompkins
888-734-7349
$35 + $7 shipping and handling.
My initial guess would be an air leak in your low pressure fuel system. Especially if you are getting a lot of white smoke. A lot of good suggestions so far. I doubt it is the fuel cutoff solenoid since from your description it is working correctly.
If you haven't replaced your fuel filter recently you might try that. Also, if your idle is to low your truck can be hard to start. One other thing to consider is you might have an air leak in your fuel heater. They sometimes develop leaks at the electrical connector if they fail. You might want to visually check that out to see if there is fuel present in the connector. You may have an air leak there even without fuel fuel but if the fuel is present then you can be pretty sure you have an air leak.
If you haven't replaced your fuel filter recently you might try that. Also, if your idle is to low your truck can be hard to start. One other thing to consider is you might have an air leak in your fuel heater. They sometimes develop leaks at the electrical connector if they fail. You might want to visually check that out to see if there is fuel present in the connector. You may have an air leak there even without fuel fuel but if the fuel is present then you can be pretty sure you have an air leak.
Thanx!! I have not had the chance to work on it, but I think this may be the problem. The retainer bolt on top (that says do not remove) well, I thought it was a bleeder screw... I guess I should give Marty a call anyway huh. Thank you again for all the help I'll post my results.
Traver
Traver
I didn't notice any fuel around the heater when I replaced the lift pump. But I will check it again, as I am having a lot of air going from the filter to the Injector pump. I replaced the fuel filter immediatly after replacing the lines, so that only has 100 or so miles on it. Plus I do it every 10k miles. Hopefully this weekend I will be able to remedy it.
Thank you all again.
Thank you all again.
another simple and free test you could try... very low tech:
i noticed that when mine was parked facing downhill slightly it would not lose prime at all. if i parked on flat ground overnight it wouldn't start unless i pumped up the pressure.
obviously not very scientific or conclusive, but at least might narrow it down to a leak in the fuel system, much cheaper fix than replacing your ip.
i noticed that when mine was parked facing downhill slightly it would not lose prime at all. if i parked on flat ground overnight it wouldn't start unless i pumped up the pressure.
obviously not very scientific or conclusive, but at least might narrow it down to a leak in the fuel system, much cheaper fix than replacing your ip.
If you only replaced the short hoses behind the engine it is very likely you may have cracked one of the steel lines on top of the bell housing in the struggle. They have a tendency to crack where the bolt down tab is welded to the tube if jiggled around too much. This is the main reason I no longer replace just the short hoses but rather abandon the stock lines and run hose all the way from engine to tank. Plus it's easier...
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