In case I run into problems, id like an article to set the timing. I cant seem to find one that straight out tells me how to do it. Thanks alot!
Mike

 

Click here

 

I am getting my timing kit soon and will be resetting the timing. Does that table for the timing stay constant like the pump lift setting would be at 6.5 mm to have the timing at 16.5 degrees and the pump lift setting at 6.6 mm to have the timing at 17 degrees and so on?
Thanks.

 

Yes.
Every 0.1mm in lift equals 0.5° increase in timing

 

I did the timing on mine and once you jump in and do it, it's not that hard. I set mine to 15.25 deg which was great for the BD Power injectors I had, but with stockers back in there it seems too advanced (considerably more vibation and noise from engine under acceleration). I would like to back it off to about 14.5 - 14.75. It seems stock injectors light off faster than the bigger nozzles.

Vaughn

 

Bill probably can tell you the correct lift for your truck but on my 95 there was two different charts and using the wrong one gave the truck way to much timing.
The extra timing did not change the mileage better or worse than what I have now. I use 17.5 deg. now so the first time was a lot. That being said, The large amont of time gave the truck a lot better mileage and for the first time it would run.
I installed 215 injectors and the thin washers that the kit had. I was told that doing that caused the fuel to be injected into the bowl better, after I had advanced the timing.
The thick washer caused the truck not to start as good as it had. The thinnest washers that the kit had really made a difference . There must be a lot more to this. Probably the reason or part of the reason why the good injectors are made to place the fuel in the bowl at the correct time, the angle of the holes in the nozzle. The injector is also at a different angle to the bowl so that has to be taken into account. Just an idea jimk

 

Jim is right there are a couple sets of numbers, see them here>
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/timing.htm

 

OK I got my timing kit in and the rest of my tools, in the timing instructions on that webpage though it says you need a gear puller and also a thrust washer for the DV. Do you really need both of these or no?

 

The gear puller is to break the gear from the pump shaft. It can be made with some 1/2 thick steel bar and a couple of bolts if you don't have one. Or any two eared puller with 8mm bolts about 2 1/2 inches long will work.

All you need for the DV holder is the proper DV socket which has a tooth count that matches the DV holder. The thrust washer is really a series of torrington bearings and washers that you place under the pump nut without the lock washer to intitially tighten it down to 11 ft/lbs to seat it to the shaft. The bearings prevent friction from the tightening of the nut on the gear causing creep, thus throwing off the timing. Once this initial torque is achieved, the nut and bearings are removed and the nut and lock washer replaced and torqued to the final 144 ft/lbs.


Did you get a barring tool as well. These are real handy, but the alternator nut can be used, though I don't like that method. Just don't use the crank bolt, as very fine rotational requirements can't be had very easily this way.

Good luck

 

Alright I did my timing, and it was already at 15.5 so I left it. I might double check it again some other time, as I ran out of time in the shop today by the time I got out there. I will check the timing again when I get my DVs in the truck. Thanks for the help guys.

 

I run empty all the time, and never carry any amount of weight, would there be any advantages to bumping the timing up anymore on the 160 pump to say 18 or so?