The one that keeps the fuel soleniod held up after starting in order to keep running.
The engine bay was washed earlier in the day.
Has anyone ever dealt with this circuit shorting?
I know it goes through the ignition switch and then to the holding coil in the fuel shut off solenoid.

Doug

 

There should be a blue wire with a fuseable link instead of blowing the fuse. There must have been a short at the relay in the power distribution center?

 

The blue link reads ok- it's the fuse inside the cab that's labeled 'engine that blows.
It also does some of the dash gauge power.
I'm now wondering if the solenoid somehow got wet inside it and shorted out the fuse.
This diagram shows the power for the 'hold' side of the solenoid going through the ignition switch. The high amp relay that gets power from the blue fusable link is fine.

http://www.fostertruck.com/images/st...it_diagram.jpg

 

Is it the number 9 fuse? If so, it powers a bunch of different things. I don't have a manual in front of me but off the top of my head, it powers the ecm, the fuel shutdown solenoid hold up coil, the fuel heater, and maybe some other stuff. If you have a bunch of fuses, try unplugging each thing and seeing if it solves the problem, then you know what the problem is.

I actually had the water in the shutdown solenoid problem that you mention but I think that it is pretty rare. The shutdown solenoid is easy to check though, just unplug the harness 3 inches from the solenoid and manually hold the solenoid up and see if you blow the fuse when the truck runs.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Dartmouth

I'm out of town till labor day so it will have to wait till' I get back.
I'll give a full report then.

But if anyone has dealt with a blown # 9 fuse successfully I would love to here from you.
Thanks again.

Doug

 

I unplugged the fuel solenoid and the short went away. No signs of water infiltration were seen.
The rubber boot was rotted to the point of no longer holding the plunger in.
Now I need to decide if I want to replace it or install the manual push-pull cable that's used in trucks.
Thanks for all the help.
Doug

 

Why not just replace the boot?
You can buy a new one from http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm or make your own with a short length of bicycle inner tube and two cable ties.

 

Hello Infidel
I have learned from reading your posts.
The holding side of the coil is a direct short. I can ,however, try to hold the plunger in place and take another ohm reading.
Later

 

Sure it's not a really low number?
I seem to recall something like 10 ohms.
True test is to hook 12 volts up to it and if it holds you're good to go.

 

All I can say for sure is that it was blowing a 10 amp fuse with the solenoid plugged in and didn't after it was unplugged.
I'm wonder if it is possible for a rotted boot to be the cause of the fuse blowing.
Rotted boot + engine bay pressure wash = blown fuse. Coincidence?
I even tried waiting a week to make sure everything had a chance to dry up before attempting to replace the fuse for a second time before condeming the solenoid.

I'm out of town again so it will be a few days before I can re-ohm it on the bench.
Anyone know off the top off their head which wires are what. Ground, pull-up & hold off the solenoid?

Doug

 

Blk/tan- ground
Red/vio- pull
Lt grn/blk- hold

 

Thank you
So it looks like the Blk/Tn would be the ground.
I'll ohm the one on the other truck and compare the two.

db