I just finished replacing the 5/16" fuel lines that connect the steel return and supply lines. If/when I do that job again, I will reconfigure those lines. It may have just been me, but to work that hard at replacing two lines that I know will go bad again is really aggravating. Anyway, while I'm at it I replaced the fuel filter and WIF sensor. I also replaced the prefilter element. Now I'm on to tabbing the gearcase dowel pin. I'm at a stopping point now because I either have to modify a 10 mm box wrench to remove the fan hub bolt or disassemble the fan hub pulley in place to access that one bolt. It's always something.

 

I did mine a while ago and I did not do anything to change any tools for remove the fan hub,also you can slide the fan out by the top hose without removing anything else.

 

Im going to change those fuel lines soon and thought i might go copper for rust prevention. 058hamer

 

Careful using copper, vibration will kill it very,very quickly.

 

I hear ya if it aint rite it will work harden. 058hamer

 

I used marine grade hose,this stuff is tuff,real tough!!It looks like it will last a vwery long time!

 

The way to make the job 500% easier plus avoid future problems with the stock metal lines is to just abandon them and run marine grade hose all the way from the engine to tank.
I wouldn't consider any other way after having the metal lines on top of the bell housing crack during the struggle to replace the short hoses on more than five rigs.

 

I have a question when replacing on the tank side of the hose.. When you run the lines back to the tank, are you connecting the new fuel line at the top of the tank messing with the connectors? or cutting the existing line that is near the tank but leaving the connectors on the top of the tank alone. Ken

 

I listened to Infidel I had more leaks than I new what to do with so I went out and bought 20' ft. of 3/8 line and 20' ft. of 5/16 line and ripped all the line out that I could see and get to, and the rest I just left there to rot forever in place. To answer the question you just go right to the fittings that come out of the module and remove the factory hose and conecters and just clamp on the marine stuff..... Thanks again Bill

 

What are the specs on the marine hose, and where can you get it? My fuel lines are rusted in place...I snapped one when I was trying to replace the (similarly rotted) brake lines... and now I'm replacing the fuel reservoir and sending unit also...NE1 know where to get a fuel reservoir cheaper than $283 at RockAuto.com?

 

Basket, the dealer sells remanufactured fuel tank modules for about $125.

I buy my marine grade hose here http://www.americanhose.com/ but it's somewhat close to me. I'm sure a google search will provide hose dealers closer to you.

The type I use is Trident #365, details here http://www.tridentmarine.com/stage/fuel.htm