I have a bad front axle passenger u joint. I want to replace it but I haven't had the hub and spindle assembly apart yet on this truck. I'm worried about that big spindle nut. Last truck I had I busted 1/2 inch drive breakers trying to get it off. What are the torque specs on that nut?

Also, will I need any special tooling to get at that ujoint? 4wd hub tool?

Any other suggestions before learning the hard way?

 

That big axle nut is on with a hundred some odd pounds. 3/4 inch drive with a 4 foot cheater pipe takes care of that. After you take off the brake caliper,take out 3 of the 4 bolts with a 12 point socket 14mm? on the back side of the hub and loosen the 4th.If your hub is stuck start truck and turn your wheels to the far right. Use a combination of extensions, one end on the head of the loose bolt and the other on your axle tube, turn your wheels to the left and the hub will "pop" out. You're using the steering wheel as a hydraulic press. Carefully slide out the axle and carefully slide it back in thru that infamous seal when your done. This is another Infidel trick. I use his name frequently with admiration. Steve

 

THanks for the info. What are the torque specs on the front axle nut?

 

Thanks Steve but you forgot one important step- the big nut needs to be kept tight when using the power steering trick or the bearing will come apart.

If you can't get the big nut off with a 4" cheater bar - stop.
Any more torque means the nut may be galled to the axle end the axle threads may come off with the nut = $$$.
Heat the nut or split it in half rather than applying mega torque.

 

175 ft/lbs
Picture of the power steering trick here https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=121533

 

My slightly modified take, with bows to infidel:

I found using a shorter extension to work better for the P/S trick. I placed it on the front upper bolt, and it rest against the axle side of the knuckle assembly. No worries about things popping loose, the threads on the bolt can be used as a fine adjustment of length (within certain confines, you want the bolt out enough, but still in enough threads so nothing is damaged).

Given that it is pushing the steering knuckle side of the bearing, I can't see why it would be necessary to have the axle nut on - that should only be necessary if you are applying force to the wheel side of the bearing.

Main thread topic:
No particularly special tools necessary. 3/4" set is handy for the axle shaft nut. I break it loose with the wheel on the ground (but just barely). Some sockets and a press/vice for the u-joint.

 

Believe me, it will bust the bearing apart if the nut isn't tight. The inner bearing is what's stuck to the axle, pushing on the mounting bolt only applies pressure to the outer part of the bearing, with the nut tight the inner and outer bearing are tied together.

 

Infidel, the man

 

Let me tell you something to make life easy and save you a lot of trouble.I tooked mine to a machine shop and let them do the u joint,at the same time have the rotor turned while it is apart they charge me onlt $50 the u joint can be a pain without a press the shop told me he don't like diont them