My 12 valver will NOT shut off after the key is turned to the off position.

My buddy isolated the problem down to the fuel shut down solenoid. The relays all appear to working just fine. Also, the rubber boot surrounding the plunger is all torn up.

I've read on Larry B's website that the rubber boot holds the solenoid plunger in position. Also, his site shows an adjustment procedure for the plunger itself.

http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

How does one tell if this solenoid is totally shot, simply out of adjustment or maybe just needs the rubber boot replaced ???

 

I think it's important to mention that the engine shut down issue did NOT happen all of the sudden (electrical part failure).

It actually happen over a period of a couple weeks.

What as happening was that the when I went to shut the engine down, initially it would "DIE" down SLOWLY and then come to a complete stop.

I was able to accellerate the shut down process by stepping on the fuel pedal and that "some how" shut the engine down FASTER. ????? I dunno either, but it worked. The engine will NOT accellerate when I step on the pedal, but it does shut down the engine faster.

What I'm thinking is that the rubber boot holds the solenoid plunger IN the "correct" OFF POSITION. I think my rubber boot had a smaller tear and eventually grew bigger causing the plunger to drop OUT of the OFF position. Therefore, it is forcing the fuel pump lever out of the OFF position enough to keep a trickle of fuel going to the engine.

Does this make sense to anybody else ????

 

I'm wondering if I don't just need the rubber boot replaced. ?????

Here's what Larry's ad states for a new rubber boot.

 

I'd guess that the solenoid is out of adjustment. The lever to kill the engine is spring loaded to a degree. It will always be in the run position unless the lever is forced down. A properly adjust solenoid will do that. On pier's website it tells you how to adjust the solenoid. When I was playing with my pump, if you had the shut down lever depressed and moved the throttle, the governor arm would come forward and then snap back. I never checked to see if the rack moved at all when it did this, but that could explain it shutting down faster when you hit the pedal.

FWIW, the boot just keeps contaminants out of the solenoid, it does not hold the lever in any position. It could be possible some crap got in the tear and is beginning to jam up the solenoid. Get a new boot, clean out the solenoid and then put it back in and see if its good again.

 

It is impossible for the solenoid to get out of adjustment unless someone messes with it.
More than likely the solenoid plunger is full of gunk from having the torn boot and is binding.
Remove the solenoid and clean the innards well, lightly coat the plunger with silicone grease.

 

I haven't had a boot for more than 400k miles. If it is torn up, throw it away, clean and lube the plunger with dry lube and reinstall. Every now and then you will have to remove the solenoid and do it again, maybe once a year. If it does stick, it won't start, you will have to push the plunger UP. That is the time to clean and lube. On the other hand, if the solenoid is bulging and deformed, bite the bullet and replace it.

 

Yea had this happen to my 94 in January. If memory serves it's like $400 for a sol replacement. Or $5 for a can of liquid wrench. I opted for the Liquid Wrench. And it worked like a champ.

 

Well, they're down to $160 nowadays.

I order a new rubber boot for $26. Gonna try that route 1st.

 

Do I Hear The Need For A Pull Cable??????????

 

I'm pondering that too!

 

pull cables are 100 percent bullet proof!!!! And its about 5 bucks to hook up!!!

 

You just put a spring to pull it up all the time and the cable will pull it down and kill it. To kill you just pull it down till it stops and then let it return up and its ready to start back up.

 

heck yeah boy!! thats the way you do it