I just got through changing out the thermostat. Still the same.

 

Nope, timing doesn't come in and out.

As for pin timing check, see this.

http://www.dieselcare.net/P7100_Inst...structions.pdf

I don't think it is timing though, now that she ran a few days OK.

Perhaps it is time for a fuel pressure check.

 

Ok, got the answer, apparently someone who owned the truck before me had set the valves but didn't fully lock down one of the rocker arm nuts..... That certainly accounts for the blue smoke.

Thanks to everyone that weighed in on this matter. Aside from the frustration of not being able to use my truck for work but I am intrigued with problem solving matters that exercise the mind.

 

By far the hardest problems to diagnose are other people's mistakes.

 

Congrats on never giving up!

 

Yes. There is a plastic engine timng plug/pin sticking out of the backside of the front housing beside where the injection pump mounts to the front housing. It might be a little snug but work it around. I think there is an oring on it that keeps it sealed. Put a socket on the crankshaft center bolt and rotate the engine slowly while pushing on the pin. At TDC the pin will snap in to the housing. Don't rotate the engine once the pin snaps in because the pin is plastic and can break off easily. Now that the engine timng pin is in locate the big plug on the side of the injection pump and unscrew it. Pull the injection pump timing pin out behind the plug and look in the hole. There is a blade with its edge facing the hole and it would be centered in the hole if the timing is stock. When done put the pin and plug back in the pump the way it came out and pull the plastic engine timing plug on the front housing back out to its original position. It won't come all the way out but should protrude as it did before you started.

If the timing needs reset that can usually be done with standard tools, but a timing gear puller and a flywheel locking tool do make life easier. There are many threads discussing the timing procedures. Most importantly in the reassembly is to make sure the taper shaft on the pump drive and the taper of the gear are absoutely clean and bone dry. I use ether as a final solvent and blow it in there with a straw on the can. Then use compressed air gently to get it bone dry. Any trace of oil or dirt will cause the gear to slip.