Jim, that's confusing. Did you or did you not use a timing light to adjust the timing? If yes, what was the method and tools required?

 

Sorry I was sleepy, no it was and always is set using the manual method, all I did with the light was check it. The light requires a pickup in the #1 injector line then there is a lead that goes to a conversion box (if you will) then to the light. I would not buy it personally but some might like it.

Jim

 

Thanks, Jim, and I'm sorry I snapped at you. Lack of sleep too.

"all I did with the light was check it"

That's what I was thinking about, although I have never seen the setup you used. Thirty years ago I would time my old 3-cyl 2-stroke Saab with a static light. This was simply a 12-volt bulb with two leads and aligator clips. I would set the crank to the proper advance (engine not running but ignition on), with the clips between the primary wire and ground, then turn the distributor until the bulb went on, or maybe off, I don't remember exactly. The points moving on the distributor cam lobes would make or break the circuit.

Anyway, I thought there might be a simple method to check our CTD 12 valve pump timing to see if it slipped or if the PO had changed it, by creating a temporay circuit with the battery, a bulb, and something in the pump that indicates when fuel is supplied. I'm new to diesels so that's as far as my brain can go until I tear into a pump, but there's some experts out there who are familiar with pump innards.

 

Remember, there is no spark- this is a COMPRESSION ignited engine! How can you trigger a timing light? Here's how: A pressure sensor is linked to the #1 injector line. This can be an in-line part, or a split piezo-crystal. The piezo-crystal generates a small voltage when it senses pressure. Either unit sends a signal to an amplifier, and the amplifier gives a large enough signal to get the timing light to flash. Like Jim said, it won't let you adjust your timing, but you can check it. From there at least you'd know what to do....

 

Excellent, Mr. Hammer, will you make one and let us know how you like it? We would all like to check our timing.

Seriously, would you do that with the engine running? We would need degree marks and a pointer? I was thinking of a static light and turning the crank by hand but I suppose a pressure switch in the #1 injector line wouldn't see any pressure pulses unless the engine is running.

As usual, I would remove the spark plugs so it would turn easier.

 

Sorry, I slipped into teacher mode. Didn't mean for it to sound like a lecture, I just went into work mode. :

I tried to make my own light. Got the piezo crystal, but didn't know (then) that an amplifier was required. I found out soon enough.
You're right, the engine needs to be running to generate the pressure pulse in the injector line to trigger the sensor.
The other part, re: the pointer and degree markings, I have and am making a copy for inclusion in the 12 valve tech facts. It is a printable sheet you can d/l from here, then print out and use. The pointer is homemade. I use a piece of coathanger. Once the 2 are calibrated, you could use the timing light. You could also use a dial indicator on the pump plunger, or spill time it. This may clarify, or add to the confusion if you are not familiar with the various timing methods available. Each precision method works, but each needs its own special tools and methods.

Remember, ground the coil so you don't get a shock!

 

Snap On makes a diesel pulse adaptor MT257A for those that don't want to make their own.

 

Rather than spend $320 on the Snap-on rig, I think I'll find a diesel shop to check my timing for a few bucks.

I bought my truck used, the PO didn't say anything about mods, and it drove real nice back from Ohio getting 22 MPH. At home I noticed the AFC had tool marks, and also that it didn't slow down on the hills (any hill, some of them are mountains) with the camper and pulling the boat, in overdrive. Being curious, I installed a boost gage and it maxed out at 28 PSI. Now I'm curious about the timing.

It aint broke, and don't need fixin. Just curious.

Oh, I had to buy a muffler.

 

I looked for someone to time my truck and there was no one close to me so I wound up buying all the tools to do it myself. Snap-on selles the kit to do it and I believe that it was around 250 bucks. Turns out that I have had to do mine a couple times and I have done several other trucks so it paid for itself already. IMHO I think the plunger lift method is the best.

 

I got a chance to look at the snap-on kit went out to the shop to the lathe and made one. works great with the starret indicator I already had if you put the delivery valve back together correctly, I didnt OOOOOOOOps

 

After reading your post, I went on a search mission. I'd been thinking it might be easy to set up the dial indicator, and I have the delivery valve socket already. So I hunted down the kit at snapon.com, and sure enough, there's the adapter! $22! ;D ;D ;D It's not enough to make me fire up the lathe and cut metric threads on our old antique machine. This is the best answer, and when I'm done I'll check it with a timing light and find out how close the timing light calls it.... :-

 

I made mine from a 1/4 NPT Brass coupler like on my air hoses then hunted thru my slew of other metric stuff it was the same thread pitch (the delivery valve) as on of the sensors that screw into a jap intake (Suzuki Samurai) then I found out by the zuki service manual what the thread was and had the die in my metric tap and die set. turned the OD down to what would make a little less than a full thread and threaded it if you want I can go back and get you the thread count and pitch. but I was thinking why could you not just fab a hold down flange that was held down by say the delivery valve mounting bolts .

for a visual I'll give this food for thought:
make the ID so that your indicator can be dropped in snug and then put a set screw in to hold it from moving then cut the outside so that when you were done it would look similar to the Engine TDC pin holder. Get me? would that not work?

or buy the say air intake temp sensor for a samurai and drill out the center to accept the indicator would be simple.

I also now own an extra pump that I am donating to science to be disected by and Gunracer1 and I (7100 series) where we will wear out our digital Cameras and allow ourselves to be completly overwhelmed by the knowledge flowing and the Keystone Light we are drinking. His total cost of admission will be: HE BUYS THE BEER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

The thread pitch is 22MM X 1.5. For $22 tho, I'm just too lazy to go fish around and fab one. In a week or so, I'll have the adapter, and then I can set the timing with appropriate tools.
BTW, I have access to a pump stand. Bring yer pump, we can see how hot we can make it!

 

i have a 215 pump in the back of my truck that i have been pulling apart a little at a time just to learn. so you are buying the beer.